Oh dear, nothings simple!
Oh dear, nothings simple!
Had a local tyre firm out today to fit two new rear tyres and tubes to my major. Great i thought, a set of new boots will make loads of difference.
Yet again, i spoke too soon, he couldnt get the tyres off the rims because the beads are so rusty, and everytime his air powered bead breakers did their thing, it just went straight through the tyre.
So, do i, set fire to each rim, then grind the bead off and re-paint, or cut the tyres off, or better still, get the new hi-mac and push the small bucket into the tyres to get them off?
Anyone ever had a similar problem?
Yet again, i spoke too soon, he couldnt get the tyres off the rims because the beads are so rusty, and everytime his air powered bead breakers did their thing, it just went straight through the tyre.
So, do i, set fire to each rim, then grind the bead off and re-paint, or cut the tyres off, or better still, get the new hi-mac and push the small bucket into the tyres to get them off?
Anyone ever had a similar problem?
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Re: Oh dear, nothings simple!
That's similar to the way our tire guys do it. Their service trucks have a hydraulic knuckle boom on them. They lay the tire and wheel flat on the ground and use the end of the boom to push the bead off of the wheel.Nick wrote:or better still, get the new hi-mac and push the small bucket into the tyres to get them off?
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- True Blue
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That would work until you hit the wire in the beadBensdexta wrote:Chainsaw with washing up liquid in lieu of chain oil?


I wouldn't worry about the oil on a tire, or parts of, that you are just going to toss anyway. Maybe just a garden hose with some water running slow just for some extra lube and coolant. I've seen guys cut them off with a sawzall over here. I don't change a lot of tires, but the ones that I have, I have always been able to get off of the rims. I have a tool called a bead breaker that hasn't failed me yet.
http://www.gemplers.com/product/145883/ ... ker-Manual
Also, becareful about breathing that crap as some tire cords contain asbestos. I guess if you add up all the years that I have done it, I've done my share of tire changing. Dandy Dave!
Have a Fordsonful day Folks!
1960 Fordson Power Major
1960 Fordson Power Major
Oh dear, nothings simple!
Nick, since the rims transmit the power from the axle to the tire you have made a good decision. Use a high quality tire lube and you shouldn't have any future problems; just don't fill them with calcium chloride! Good luck!
Never give up!
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- True Blue
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If the rims are that bad I agree with Kim. Scrap them and start over. I've always said, Calcium chloride is a farmers dream, and a restorers nightmare.
I have a 1939 john deere A that has very rare 36 X 8 inch 3 piece rims. (In 1940 they went to 38 inch one piece.) One of the rims was ate very bad for a section and I did manage to get a 36 X 6 - 3 piece from a JD B. that had enough good metal left. I cut the bad sections and welded good pieces in to save this very rare original rim. I would not recommend doing this with a tractor that is used for heavy field work. The old A was a gift and I restored it about 20 years or more ago as a show tractor before my Love Affair with my Power Major. Also, it takes a lot of time to cut and fit, and do it right, and for the price of new rims, the old ones are just not worth screwing with. Most of the 1939 JD's have been changed as the 38's fit right on the cast iron centers if so equiped. I'm a stickler for correctness and wanted the originals as few have servived because of the evil C.C. You have made a wise decision.
Me, on the other hand,
Forgive me Almighty God of thy Most Powerful Blue, Orange, and Gray Fordsons for coveting thy john deere. I was young and did not know any better but followed thy crowd of thy lovers who are of thy yellow and green.
Dandy Dave!
I have a 1939 john deere A that has very rare 36 X 8 inch 3 piece rims. (In 1940 they went to 38 inch one piece.) One of the rims was ate very bad for a section and I did manage to get a 36 X 6 - 3 piece from a JD B. that had enough good metal left. I cut the bad sections and welded good pieces in to save this very rare original rim. I would not recommend doing this with a tractor that is used for heavy field work. The old A was a gift and I restored it about 20 years or more ago as a show tractor before my Love Affair with my Power Major. Also, it takes a lot of time to cut and fit, and do it right, and for the price of new rims, the old ones are just not worth screwing with. Most of the 1939 JD's have been changed as the 38's fit right on the cast iron centers if so equiped. I'm a stickler for correctness and wanted the originals as few have servived because of the evil C.C. You have made a wise decision.


Forgive me Almighty God of thy Most Powerful Blue, Orange, and Gray Fordsons for coveting thy john deere. I was young and did not know any better but followed thy crowd of thy lovers who are of thy yellow and green.

Have a Fordsonful day Folks!
1960 Fordson Power Major
1960 Fordson Power Major
one of my rears was filled with it, one was not weirdly! i have had a change of heart after seeing that each new rim without the centre is £200!
So earlier i cleaned up the rusty rim and welded it to make it stronger, then red oxided it.
The one full of antifreeze, ive just cut off the rim, and its not rusty at all, just like new, so hopefully this week the new tyres will be on!
So earlier i cleaned up the rusty rim and welded it to make it stronger, then red oxided it.
The one full of antifreeze, ive just cut off the rim, and its not rusty at all, just like new, so hopefully this week the new tyres will be on!
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- True Blue
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That is because the empty side leaked and rusted the rim. The full side did not as the tube and tire valve was good. If the rim is not rusted too thin you may be alright welding up a small hole here and there. But if it is rusted thin, then the rim can split and ruin you new tubes and your life. The only good thing about a rear tractor tire is that the pressures are not as high as and automobile or large truck. Still, with that said, when you put 12 PSI (pounds per square inch) of air in the rear tires, that is 12 times atmospheric pressure. On a large tractor tire that is a lot of volume. I would absolutly never weld a large truck rim as many have as much as 90 to 100 PSI. I had a friend that had a truck garage and towing service several miles from here. Sadly, he was killed when a large truck tire exploded, A piece of the side wall came apart and hit him square in the chest killing him instantly. Another fellow engine and tractor enthusiest is blind today and his face is mamed from a split rim wheel that blew apart while he was fixing flats on a bus. A neighbor broke both arms years ago while filling a split rim wheel that came apart. The tire blew to the ceiling and a quick acting fellow mechanic pulled him across the floor before it fell on him. Put some chains around the tire and fill it with a clip on valve and stay back until it seats and is safe. Tire accidents have hit close to home around here. I always treat them with a lot of respect. Work safely, or leave it to the pros with the proper equipment. Dandy Dave!
Have a Fordsonful day Folks!
1960 Fordson Power Major
1960 Fordson Power Major
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Some good advice Dave. A tyre fitter I know saw a man cut in half with a split rim wheel on a large crane.Dandy Dave wrote:That is because the empty side leaked and rusted the rim. The full side did not as the tube and tire valve was good. If the rim is not rusted too thin you may be alright welding up a small hole here and there. But if it is rusted thin, then the rim can split and ruin you new tubes and your life. The only good thing about a rear tractor tire is that the pressures are not as high as and automobile or large truck. Still, with that said, when you put 12 PSI (pounds per square inch) of air in the rear tires, that is 12 times atmospheric pressure. On a large tractor tire that is a lot of volume. I would absolutly never weld a large truck rim as many have as much as 90 to 100 PSI. I had a friend that had a truck garage and towing service several miles from here. Sadly, he was killed when a large truck tire exploded, A piece of the side wall came apart and hit him square in the chest killing him instantly. Another fellow engine and tractor enthusiest is blind today and his face is mamed from a split rim wheel that blew apart while he was fixing flats on a bus. A neighbor broke both arms years ago while filling a split rim wheel that came apart. The tire blew to the ceiling and a quick acting fellow mechanic pulled him across the floor before it fell on him. Put some chains around the tire and fill it with a clip on valve and stay back until it seats and is safe. Tire accidents have hit close to home around here. I always treat them with a lot of respect. Work safely, or leave it to the pros with the proper equipment. Dandy Dave!
I have a few small ones left on a couple of hay trailers. If I take off a tyre I put a rachet strap around them when re inflating.