Valve clearance

[arjan_brouwer]

I believe that i have the wronge clearance. What are the correct ones for a new performance sm?

[Brian]

0.012" Exhaust with Rotator caps, 0.015" Inlet without Rotator caps. Exhaust without Rotator caps 0.015".

[arjan_brouwer]

Hmm.. Then i have that ok. Then perhaps explaining my problem.

I have overhauled the engine including new valves. But now i have a ticking sound in the head.

What can this be?

Sorry for my English grammar. Typing this on a phone, sitting in front of a fordson that is not happy....

[arjan_brouwer]

What a stupid stupid stupid stupid mistake I made

The 4 rings (don't know the English word) which hear under the exhaust springs... I accidentally turned them ​​springs below the inlet.

2 of the 4 tappets bended :s

[Kim]

As my father told me long ago, NOBODY bats 1000! As long as we learn from our mistakes and no one gets hurt, errors are correctable. Have a great Holiday!

[1962 model]

Hello,
There is a specific way to adjust the clearance when you sort out your problems, I find it best to adjust the valves while the other valve in each cylinder is under load as some racker gear flexing seems to be evident.
There is a term used for this way of adjusting valve clearances.

Normally we would set the paired cylinder on top dead centre with the valves on the rock, however this does not seem to be a good way of adjusting Fordson clearances.

I have just noticed that you are referring to a late Super Major and the rockers appear to be the larger ratio rockers they used, if you have swapped heads to a early 1958- 59 mark two head this will bend your pushrods as those heads do not have sufficient clearance for the pushrods, a super major head must be replaced with a 1960 Power Major or Super Major head only.

Mike

[Brian]

Another thing to watch for is the valve springs, they have a right and a wrong way up. Check that you have the close together coils at the bottom.

[arjan_brouwer]

Ok. Today was the day I fixed the problem. Fired her up and no ticking sound anymore. But with one problem solved another one came... She is leaking oil (black) from the exaust. Is this normal with an completely overhauled engine?



@ 1962
I have not swapped the head. But what do you mean with "larger ratio rockers"?

[Pavel]

For a 4 cylinder engine the valve adjustment rule is -9
For a 6 cylinder the rule is - 13.
Starting from the front of the engine, assuming the front is no. 1 cylinder [some are not] each valve assumes a number ie 1-8 for a 4 cyl. Therefore, applying the rule for a 4 cylinder engine, to adjust the 5th. valve along [in no. 3 cylinder] you would fully open the 4th. valve along in no. 2 cylinder [5 + 4 = 9] and so on.
This rule still applies with Ford engines, who, in their wisdom, use a back to front firing order, ie 1-2-4-3, instead of the usual 1-3-4-2 to be found on the majority of engines.
As far as 'oil' chuffing out of the exhaust, it may not be oil at all. Oil, and there always is some scraped from the walls of the cylinder, is usually burnt in the combustion process and manifests itself as a blue cloud. Black droplets are usually the result of an incomplete combustion process because the engine is too cold. The droplets are mainly water coloured by carbon deposits in the exhaust system. Follow any car just after it has been started and you will see vapour and droplets coming out of the exhaust pipe [very annoying in so called high speed car chases one often sees on TV].
If by chance you do have oil droplets [and blue smoke] issueing forth, then you may have cause for alarm, ie badly worn valves and/or guides; glazed cylinder liners; p/rings fitted upside down, to name some.
Pavel

[Brian]

Oil from the exhaust is common from a diesel which:

1. Has just been overhauled.

2. Has been or is being used to do very light work.

The answer to the problem is hard work. We have covered this so many times over the years both in the dealership and on the site. The best thing you can do is put her on a plough or a dynamometer and thrash her kindly! Run her under load at about 1600 to 1800 rpm and just let her work for two or three hours. Do not over rev. or let her get overheated. That will clear the problem but remember ..... ticking over for long periods or just pootling around on a trailer will start it up again.

The other thing that will cause this problem is the additives in modern agricultural oils. The brake anti-squark additives in these oils are bad for our old ladies. Use straight engine oils rather than Multipurpose ones.

[Pavel]

A wee query Brian.
The post on this site regarding oils for all Majors issued by Ford states that SAE 20/30 HD, which is in effect a multigrade, is the way to go.
I take it that that info. is still correct - or is it?
Having said that, I've used it for the last 4 years and am quite satisfied with its performance.
Pavel

[Brian]

That is the best oil, it is usually a straight multigrade with no brake additives, the Castrol version used to be "Multiuse".

It was the one we always used in the dealership on Major engines, gearboxes and hydraulics. Castrol also made an oil called "Multipurpose" or "MP".This was rated as a Series 3 oil and contained the anti-squark additives. It was great in the '000nd series and, as long as the tractor was worked hard, OK in the Major range but problems surfaced with bore glazing if the tractor was on medium/light duties.

At the same time Mercedes withdrew the warranty on any combine engine that used MP and other oils which contained the brake additive specifying straight HD20W. HD 20/30W was accepted.

[BarryM]

Pavel,

Ford Australia changed the Specs for Fordson Gear Box and Rear Transmission Oils on 20th May 1959. It did away with Mineral 90 Gear Oil in favour of Engine Oil.

The Specs were:- Below 90 degrees F - SAE 30 HD. Consistent Temperature above 90 degrees F - SAE 40 HD. This was for tractors sold after November 1953.

In those times, HD Oils were more commonly known as Series 1, 2, or 3 Oils. In the 1970's Series 1 Oil ceased and was replaced by Series 2 Oils. The most common Oil used in Fordson Majors and Dexta tractors was - Mobil Delvac 1230; Castrol CRB 30; Shell Rotella 30.

20/30 Grades were not usually referred to as Multigrades, but classed as Duo Grades.
20W40 or 10W50 were described as Multi Grades.

[Pavel]

Sorry to prolong the 2nd topic on this post - oils - but thanks for the heads up.
Never been a fan of Castrol oils so checked out the Shell Australia website - not good!
For the SMD engine they recommend Harvella T 15w40.
For the transmission they say 80/90 gear oil.
Bearing in mind the info about oils stated in this Forum I did some further checking of the Shell website.
The only Rotella now marketed is DD [Detroit Diesel] and is made specifically for their 2 stroke diesel engines, plus any other 2 strokers.
The oil that fits the FMD bill is Rimular R3 in 10w, 30w and 40w monogrades. This oil also has an anti-shear additive and is therefore good to go in transmissions.
Pavel