'57 New Major hydraulics not holding + more

[DaveP]

G'day folks, New to the forum, what a great place for info My 1957 New Major hydraulics only hold the slasher up for about 4 secs. My brother-in-law has had this tractor since 1980 and he has never changed the diff oil. I drained it, very yellow in colour until it settled in the drain pan where some black then surfaced, also rather foul smelling and only 25 litres came out. Lots of oil lumps in the bottom of the pan. Also a brass washer came out. Next step I will do is clean the filter, but I am hoping with 40 litres of new oil that the hydraulics will then hold up as they should. Is there a chance this will be the case and fix things, or will it be an internal problem, so don't bother with the new oil

Also I need to source a new 'o' ring for the inspection glass on the fuel pump and a Mk 2 engine oil filter.

Has a suicide starter set up. Need to source a new switch for the starter and a solenoid, so I can be on the tractor, rather than in front of the rear wheel.

Engine head gasket was replaced about 15 years ago.... but the leak was still there. My brother-in-law reckons it's a cracked head, but a small leak. Slight bubbles in the radiator water, water slowly entering sump, air filter oil slowly dripping out and I notice under load white smoke. He gave me a bottle of ChemWeld with the tractor, but I'm worried it will glue up the radiator. He's used the tractor with this leak for all these years so I'm thinking to continue doing the same, although having it fixed would ease my worry.

Regards to all, Dave.

[Pavel]

G'day Dave -- and welcome!
Try BareCo for oil filters [and fuel ones] -- but check the filter length as there are 3 listed. Sparax are rather limited in their Fordson Major stock.
Try Coventry's or Repco for the fuel lift pump gasket -- either rubber or cork will do fine -- but measure the diameter first.
Here in Oz and the U.S we find Bars Leakes works wonders in the rad. It does not clog the rad. cores.
Pavel

[henk]

Welcome.

The back end needs new oil and a cleanup before you put it in.
I think your piston gland of the 3p hitch needs to be replaced. That's an easy job.

[DaveP]

Hi guys, thanks for your replies and info.
Pavel, I will use Bars as you suggest, my radiator has no drain point and the engine block tap is seized, so a bit of work before I put it in. I may end just putting Bars in and topping the water up.
Henk, I'm a bit stuck as to what to do with the hydraulics not holding, only having simple mechanic knowledge. You say it's an easy job, but I've looked at the service book. Do you mean replace the ram piston seal If so, page 158 says the ram cylinder and piston can be removed in situ. So is it a case of taking out the 6 bolts that holds the valve gear body and get to the ram this way I took the hydraulic pump wire mesh filter out and found it to be reasonably clean. Only thing is the cover gasket is now broken. I wonder with taking things apart, a lot of gaskets must get broken and with no spare parts around the corner, what do people use I'm thinking an instant gasket in a tube type of product is the answer.
Again many thanks for your help with this. Best regards, Dave.

[Pavel]

Try removing the bottom hose -- most of the coolant will come out. Suggest you top up with distilled water.
Heat induced brittleness in gaskets is always a problem. I've had some little success in cleaning up the bits with kero and hosing off. Then 'glueing' them with silicon gasket cement. You could, of course, order a new one from Agriline, UK. The early one -- no screw holes -- is 5305; the later one -- 6 screw holes -- is 5302. Both at 5 UK pounds each.
Bare Co do not list one separately.
Pavel

[henk]

Dave,

You described the right way to do the job. You will need some old cotton to clean up the oil. The cylinder and piston will come out with the valve body and a bit of tapping will separate them. Then remove the piston and check the gland.
You can make some new paper gaskets yourself. If you want to know how just ask here or to an old mechanic. Instant gasket will do also, but will give you trouble the next time. Around the cylinder and the vale chest is an O-ring. Try to keep it at one peace. If you have to order a new gland, than order some gasket paper and the O-ring.

[DaveP]

G'day again guys,

Many thanks for your helpful suggestions. Pavel, my lower radiator hose looks a bit squeezed in, but I will try to take it off and drain the radiator. Also I'm sorry, but I meant I'd broken the gasket of the hydraulic pump cover, the cover that has the hydraulic oil drain plug in it.
Henk, yes I think I need to learn to make my own gaskets, will research this on the web. I am concerned that gasket repair products would make the next time removal difficult. Any tricks you have re making gaskets, I'd certainly appreciate knowing.
I'm thinking I might pay a mechanic to at least get the piston seal out for me, not sure. It will then be apart for a while as I try to source the seal locally and I guess make a gasket or two.
For oil filters I've checked Bareco, Sparex, Baldwin and Ryco. I realise there are 2 different length filters, but even so the brands are slightly altered lengths. I gather the oil filter housing takes up the variation as the bolt is put in. The Baldwin filter includes two o rings and 2 cork gaskets. Anyway I'll filter out which is the best way to go including easiest supply.

Many thanks again, Dave.

[Pavel]

A partially collapsed hose usually indicates that it is close to it's use by date. There is also a chance that the rad. cap is crook and does not freely allow air into the system to compensate for cooling coolant thus creating a partial vacuum.
As you will have noticed there is a difference of 18mm in the Bareco oil filter sizes. If you select one that is within about 5 mm of the currently fitted one the difference will be adjusted by the spring in the bottom of the canister.
Pavel

[henk]

How to make a paper gasket.

Put the gasket paper flat on the surface. If there’s something sticking out like the axle from the water pump, cut a hole in the paper.
Keep it still at the same place, DON’T MOVE IT.
Rub with a dirty finger or thump across the paper. Press extra around a hole. Bend a tiny bit at the outside edges. This will help you to keep it in place. If you bend the paper at the inside you will move the paper. So don’t.
This way you will get a precise mark of the surface on the paper.
IMPORTEND: First cut out the holes with a ( don’t know the English word) hole cutter by placing the paper on a piece of hard wood.
Use the head side of the wood block. Place the cutter an tap gently. If you do this at the end the paper will torn.
Then cut out the inside of the gasket because this is harder to do than the outside. And then the outside.

This is how we theach the students. We let them practice on an old part with normal paper.

People have all sorts of differentiations in the way they make gaskets. Some will use a steel hammer to cut the paper around the outside edges. Personally, I think this could damage the surface of the part and gives you more change that it will leak.

[Glenn]

Dad showed me how to make gaskets this way 50 years ago.

[DaveP]

Thanks for all the info Glenn, Henk & Pavel. Seems that gasket making will not be too difficult with all the tips you've provided. Glenn I'll now need to look for a small hammer like you have

Hope all's fine in your parts of the world. Thanks greatly again, Dave.

[Gman]

Hello to everyone, hope all is well. I have not been on here lately and wanted to say hello to all.
Dave, you might want to look at some of my old post regarding hydraulics. I was able to get mine going with the help of this site. Anyway I hope to get back on here some, I have done a few things to my Power Major since my last post but have not been able to get her out and do much work. Hope to get home early today and start her up, maybe a little work with her tomorrow. Anyway good luck to all on your projects.

Hi guys, thanks for your replies and info.
Pavel, I will use Bars as you suggest, my radiator has no drain point and the engine block tap is seized, so a bit of work before I put it in. I may end just putting Bars in and topping the water up.
Henk, I'm a bit stuck as to what to do with the hydraulics not holding, only having simple mechanic knowledge. You say it's an easy job, but I've looked at the service book. Do you mean replace the ram piston seal If so, page 158 says the ram cylinder and piston can be removed in situ. So is it a case of taking out the 6 bolts that holds the valve gear body and get to the ram this way I took the hydraulic pump wire mesh filter out and found it to be reasonably clean. Only thing is the cover gasket is now broken. I wonder with taking things apart, a lot of gaskets must get broken and with no spare parts around the corner, what do people use I'm thinking an instant gasket in a tube type of product is the answer.
Again many thanks for your help with this. Best regards, Dave.

[DaveP]

G'day Gman, thanks for the info. Yep, I can see you've gone through the hoops in repairing hydraulics. I'm learning heaps from this forum. Thanks again, Dave.

[Pavel]

Those very handy hole punches for fashioning bolt/screw holes in gaskets are made for making holes in leather.
Another suggestion for 'skinning a cat.'
With the sharp machined surfaces on castings an outline of the required gasket can usually be had by placing the casting face down and tapping around it with a rubber mallet. Cutting out can be done with a sharp Exacto, Stanley knife or craft tool.
Pavel

[Dandy Dave]

Wecome Aboard Matey! Your starter switch parts can be ordered from Agriline. http://www.agrilineproducts.ie/ Dandy Dave!

[DaveP]

Thanks greatly for the extra info Pavel and Dave. It seems here in Australia that Wagga Tractors have a lot of parts. They only sell via ebay but that suits me.
Hope all's fine. Thanks again, Dave.

[Pavel]

Dave, be sure to give us some pics and info from the student course as it progresses, please.
Pavel

[DaveP]

Hi folks,

I've been away doing lots of non Fordson things but now back onto it. I've removed the hydraulic valve gear body and ram piston. Found the valve gear body has 7 bolts to remove, not 6 as has been mentioned. I've looked at the books and they show only one ram seal, but mine has two.

I have the Sparex S.4726 seal repair kit which has 2 seals, but I know one is for the early tractor and the other for the later. The larger seal would not fit in the ram cylinder.

The diameter of the groove furthest from the bolt is larger.

Do I reassemble it with only one seal or is there a part available for the 2nd seal I do like the idea of 2 seals.
I have purchased Beldam Crossley Mule 166 gasket paper, says it's for oil sumps and gearbox covers. Will this be okay to use as the valve body gasket and valve body front cover gaskets My concern is hydraulic pressure.

Onto the engine. I have had the head serviced. It needed a slight shave, due to a warp letting water into the 2nd cylinder. I note the book says to apply a gasket sealer to all head gasket types unless it is a composite gasket. I have the Bareco B2819 and there's no mention of what kind of gasket it is. It is silver and seems like metal. Does anyone know If I need to use a gasket sealer, what would you recommend
Also I note the book says to keep the order of the push rods and valve caps. My mate did this part of the dis-assembly and he has not kept the order. I'm guessing this means we'll have to adjust all the tappets.... are there any other problems with not keeping the order

Many thanks for your help on all this, Dave.

[Brian]

Don't worry about the push rods and you will have to adjust the valves anyway as you have put on a new gasket and had the head skimmed.

You have two possibilities regarding the hydraulic piston seal. You could get one made, when I did mine about five years ago I took it to my local seal supplier who could not match the sizes Ford used for piston and cylinder. He got a seal made up for me in a couple of days and the cost was less than I was being asked for one from after market suppliers. Plus the seal was made of heavy duty material which he said would last for another 50 years!

See the repair in the Fordson tractor Pages Wiki. Link in the forum headings, codes "fordsontractorpages" and "dotty".

http://www.fordsontractorpages.nl/wiki/ ... epair.html

The other possibility is to contact Leo Wignell at Wignells Tractors PA, 274 Euroa-Strathbogie Road, Euros 3666, Victoria, Australia who has been working on these tractors for more years than he cares to remember. He is a member of the Fordson Tractor Club of Australia and a very good man to know. He may have the seals in stock. The double seal is not common here in Europe although I have come across it on later tractors in the '000 nd range.

If you get in contact with Barry Milsom at the Club he is also a good contact. Mention Fordson Tractor Pages and Brian. He may introduce you to Sharon who makes wonderful cakes (I have tried them!!!!!!) and who runs a Bepco dealers. She is one of the best organisers of tractor parts that I know.

[DaveP]

G'day Brian,

Many thanks for all the info. I'll phone Leo tomorrow to see if he has the seal. I was unable to view the link http://www.fordsontractorpages.nl/wiki/ ... epair.html
as it says 'authentication required' and my log in does not seem to work with it.

Any idea re the gasket type in the Bareco B2819 head gasket kit If I do need a gasket sealing goo, what is best to use

Again many thanks Brian. Without this fantastic forum I would be snookered. Very best regards Dave.

[henk]

I have never seen a piston like that before. Could it be that a local dealer machined the second groove?

[Pavel]

Dave, I used the Bareco head set some 3 years ago; it's the composite gasket, not the shim one. I used Hylomar on the head gasket [and others] -- no leaks so far.

Pavel

[Brian]

That is why I gave you the codes "fordsontractorpages" and "dotty" Dave, you use those rather than your log on codes. We had to do this to stop "nasties" changing all the information on there.

[AdrianNPMajor]

Loving this thread, which sums this great site up - detailed info from knowledgeable people who have seen it, done it and got the Tshirt! I consider myself to be relatively knowledgeable on a few aspects of the Major, and mostly because I have been on this site.

Any chance of seeing some photos of your Major?

Best

Adrian

[chriss]

Loving this thread, which sums this great site up - detailed info from knowledgeable people who have seen it, done it and got the Tshirt! I consider myself to be relatively knowledgeable on a few aspects of the Major, and mostly because I have been on this site.

Any chance of seeing some photos of your Major?

Best

Adrian

I couldn't agree more this is without doubt the best forum I also would like to see more photo's and am very interested in peoples location