Hello just got a fordson major and the engine is blown up!! so I need to remove the sump to get the pistons out but the bolts what hold the radius arm in place are siezed. Is there a easy way to get them out or another way?
Christ! thats had a whack or two, is the engine seized up? When you get the pistons out I would make sure the liners arent damaged, also i would replace the bearings and examine and measure the crank just incase.
Do you know what happened to the engine for that to happen?
I had exactly the same issue with the radius bolts through the front axle, you could torch them out, but to be honest its much easier to unbolt the side rails, and take the sump pin out which holds the radius up and wheel the whole lot out of the way. Its makes it much easier to drop the sump and get around the engine, plus it only 8 bolts, and a pin to take out.
Oh yay, look, another seized bolt! Lets get a hammer.....and some kano.....and some cider!
yeah what happened was the old boy what owned it was stone deaf and partially blind started it on easy start it reved out of control which he didn't`t now and that was the result.
I think I now what you mean so I support the tractor under the gearbox and remove the front leaving the engine still attached to the gearbox?
I'll try some heat first at the weekend is there any risk of cracking when heating the axle if fail then use plan B
yes thats correct, i always use a jack and wooden blocks aswell to support the gearbox. you may find the repair manual useful, on the main page before you get to the bulletin board, click on new major, it may have a couple pictures. if not go onto the 'wiki' because brian rebuilt his majors engine and removed the front as i have said.
Oh yay, look, another seized bolt! Lets get a hammer.....and some kano.....and some cider!
Yep. That is what happens when an engine, "Swallows a Valve." Looks like your missing a valve spring on # 4 intake. How does the bottom of the head look? Best to have it checked for cracks. Dandy Dave!
Thanks for the help I took the front away in the end easy when you now how.
Now I need to decide what I'm going to do should I buy a engine overhaul kit of agriline.
number 4 piston smashed damaged liner other pistons have had slight damage to tops and liner worn so pistons didn't come out easy. cylinder head valves smashed seats badly damaged. Any suggestions or other places to get parts please post.
I assume any major cylinder head would fit the block -if so I have a 1956 mk1 engine thats gunna go scrap - and I have the cylinder head - was a running engine - don't know if that would be of any help ?!
1963 fordson new performance super major. And An array or fordson parts and pieces !
hi drz 400 did you get your cylinder head job sorted out, also looks like the injector tip took a big hit as well, you need a later head as I bet the manifold bolts are not inline they will be off set, ive got a head I just took of a running engine that would go straight onto your block and is the correct head for your block, same style head as yours so just fit your mainfolds and you would be away, trouble is there very heavy as you found out so a costly job to send, where abouts are you?
I think this subject is good, so I would like to use this thread, even if I am not the originator.
I need to remove the sump, and have loosen 29 bolts. 10 on the LHS, 11 on the RHS and 6 towards the gear-box,
but I am not able to loosen then sump at all
Is this a common problem?
Have you removed the one on the front, up a "hole" made by the sump and front mounting plate? I have had to chisel them off sometimes with a thin chisel in the join but it is always a worrying thing to do.
When you take the sump down, the front always always comes last otherwise the sump will jam as you try and get it off.
Fordson Tractor Pages, now officially linked to: Fordson Tractor Club of Australia, Ford and Fordson Association and Blue Force.
Brian
I have finnaly been able to remove the sump.
Had to split the tractor between gearbox and engine.
Tried a crowbar between flywheel and sump, but no sucsess
Removed the clutch and the flywheel, and put two hydraulic Bottle Jacks in between sump and the sylinder block
One 6 tonns and one 2 tonns between wood blocks.
The 6 tonns was able to create a gap between sump and sylinder block, but not the two tons.
Moved the 6 tonns to the other side of the cranckshaft, and was able to create a gap on this side also.
When gap was created on both sides, seen from the engine end, it was stright forward
Seems to me that a previous owner has used glue on the paper gasket,
because when the sump and block was separated,
I saw sticky glue like material come apart.
Need to clean the two faces properly before a new glue free gasket goes on