Super Major Engine rebuild

[Fixersteve]

Hi Guys, As promissed here are some pictures of my engine rebuild so far....

Untitled by fixersteve, on Flickr


Untitled by fixersteve, on Flickr


Untitled by fixersteve, on Flickr


Untitled by fixersteve, on Flickr


Untitled by fixersteve, on Flickr


Untitled by fixersteve, on Flickr


Untitled by fixersteve, on Flickr

[AdrianNPMajor]

Hi Steve

You're getting ready to rock and roll. Soon have the engine out.

Can you try and keep views of your workshop out of the background? I'm getting all bitter and twisted with envy!

Best

Adrian

[Kim]

WOW! That's PRETTY! Great job!

[Kiwi Kev]

Can you try and keep views of your workshop out of the background? I'm getting all bitter and twisted with envy!

[Fixersteve]

Haha cheers Adrian, I must remember to put screens up to hide the workshop! Got the pistons out lastnight, but my dad is making me up a puller to pull the liners.


Untitled by fixersteve, on Flickr


Untitled by fixersteve, on Flickr


Untitled by fixersteve, on Flickr

[Fixersteve]

So Ive managed to get all four liners out, after my dad had to make me a puller. The head has gone off today to have the valve seats reground and the new valve guides fitted. Will upload some pictures tomorrow morning. Got to go home to eat now apparently

[AdrianNPMajor]

Hi Steve

This image may be useful for what you have to do next.

Best

Adrian

[AdrianNPMajor]

Another next stage on.

[AdrianNPMajor]

Steve

Jumping ahead a bit, but just to mention it while I remember, Brian has his doubts about some of the non OEM head gaskets, and after a negative experience so do I. The one that came with the engine repair kit leaked -Brian believes they may be slightly too thin. I replaced it with a genuine New Holland gasket (lot more expensive) and it has been fine. Fitting the cheaper one may turn out to be false economy if you end up having to take the head off again.

Best

Adrian

[Fixersteve]

Thanks Adrian, To get a genuine New Holland headgasket can i just go to my local newholland dealers?? Also how did you get the top of your block so clean and shiny??

I Dont think im going to go as far as you have with your engine due to money. The cam shaft all looks fine and the crank has no damage to it.

How much force does pushing the new liners in require??


Untitled by fixersteve, on Flickr


Untitled by fixersteve, on Flickr


Untitled by fixersteve, on Flickr


Untitled by fixersteve, on Flickr


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Untitled by fixersteve, on Flickr

[Dandy Dave]

Putting in new liners does not take as much force as pulling the old ones out that have been there for years. You will need to clean the sealing surfaces well and the top grove that the liner sits in. You have to be sure that the liners stick above the block around 0.003 thousands of an inch. I alway use a silicone gasket sealer to help lube the sealing rings when they are being installed, and it also will seal any small imperfections that may cause a leak. Dandy Dave!

[AdrianNPMajor]

Totally agree with Dave. The new liners will just slip into place.

I used a wire brush on the end of an electric drill to clean up the block. As you can see, it does a good job. Your block looks in great condition. The top of the block needs to be as shiny as a new pin to ensure a good mating surface with the new head gasket. The recesses that the liners sit in also need to be shiny clean to ensure proper seating of the new liner - the tolerance Dave mentions should be fine if the recess is clean. Re the head gasket I got mine from my local NH dealer - about £28 as I remember. When you get to that stage, a thin smear of Blue Hylomar on the top of the block is a good idea.

Re the crank, if your old bearings show no sign of having picked up, then the crank is almost certainly just fine.

I would advise using Wellseal to seat all gaskets, especially at the front of the block before you attach the front plant, and the timing case cover. The front cranK seal could do with a good smear of it too. I didn't get a good seal here and now have a small but annoying leak to fix when I get round to it.

The auxiliary shaft (injection pump drive) is easy to get at so worth renewing the bearings and the seal. Not too expensive.

The oil pump should also be renewed. It's the heart of the lubrication system and you've got a fifty-year old one that has pumped some less than clean oil in its time, or so you have to assume.

Hope these thoughts are helpful.

Best

Adrian

[AdrianNPMajor]

A couple of more photos that may be helpful.

[Fixersteve]

Thanks Adrian, What did you use to get the liner measurement?? Dial indicator or metal rule and feeler gauges?? Also can i get the auxillary drive seal and bearing from agriline??

Ive just rung our local NH dealer that we use here and ordered a Genuine NH headgasket £22

Thanks So much for the pictures and your advice so far, Need to see if the piggy bank can stretch to a new oil pump.......

Going to start taking block off the tractor after work and get cleaning.

All the best

[AdrianNPMajor]

Hi Steve

I measured the liner protrusion with a straight edge and feeler gauge. Good idea to measure in line with the block, and across the block. Re the auxiliary shaft bearings and seal, I got them from Silver Fox tractor spares. When you come to check your oil pressure when she's up and running again, you'll be glad that you replaced the oil pump. It would be a bit disappointing to encounter problems after giving the engine such a thorough overhaul.

Best

Adrian

[Fixersteve]

Can any tell me how to remove the engine oil pump, the manual just says remove the bolts. is there more to it??

[scoobyjim]

remove the bolts from the pump and remove the fuel pump shaft that drives the pump. Pump will then come out

[Fixersteve]

Thanks Scooby, do I need to remove the engine front plate and all before I can remove the auxiliary drive shaft and oil pump??

[supermajor61]

Your dad has made a good job of the liner puller. Any chance of a photograph of the bottom end of the liner puller ?

[AdrianNPMajor]

Steve

You really need to remove the front plate to get access to the cam shaft, which in turn needs to come out if you are going to make a thorough job of cleaning out the oil galleries, which only makes sense given where you are right now. It's a bit like going to to the other side of the world - it's a long trek, but you reach the point where you start coming back again!

As you can see from the first image, there is a stop on the bearing on the auxiliary drive shaft that means that the front plate has to come off to remove the bearing and the whole shaft.

Don't worry, shouldn't take to long to get the plate off and with a quick whiz over with the wire brush/drill combo it'll soon be clean. Run petrol or another solvent down the oil galleries and blow them through (don't forget the ones in the crank) and then you are at the reassembly stage. Your repair kit will have all the gaskets.

Best

Adrian

[AdrianNPMajor]

Don't forget the brass bungs, front and rear ends of the block. A pull through is best for cleaning the long straight gallery. Replace bungs with a spot of loctite.

[AdrianNPMajor]

Forgot to say that you do not need to remove the auxiliary drive shaft to remove the oil pump. The pump is held in position by two bolts. Remove these and the pump can be drawn out of its housing. Its angled-tooth cog mates with the cog on the auxiliary shaft to pick up its drive.

Removing and replacing the auxiliary drive shaft bearings is a good idea because the bearing behind the seal often gets slack as a result of dirt ingress after the fifty year old seal stopped sealing efficiently twenty years ago!

[Fixersteve]

Thanks Adrian, at the moment im having problems pulling the auxillary drive shaft and camshaft cogs off. Any tips??

Here are some pictures of the puller dad made.


Untitled by fixersteve, on Flickr


Untitled by fixersteve, on Flickr


Untitled by fixersteve, on Flickr

[Dandy Dave]

Nice job on the puller. Looks like your dad has access to machineing tools. I have a shop full myself. Dandy Dave!

[Pavel]

Cleaning oilways and galleries properly is not quite as simple as is often suggested. Fluids, such as petrol, will only, for the most part, remove surface carbon that has softened. For the oilway drillings you would find that a drill bit of the correct size, both standard length and/or with a long shank, used in a hand brace will reamer out all the carbon. Then finish off, prior to using an airline, by using an oilway cleaner [much like an oversize pipe cleaner] obtainable from an engineering supplier, or possibly Halfords. These should be dipped, and cleaned in petrol before each insertion.
The gauze of the oil pick-up pipe can be cleaned with oven cleaner or, as we used to, burning off with petrol and wire brushing to finish.

Pavel