Super Major Engine rebuild

[Fixersteve]

Hi Chaps, I have now got the engine out, crank out and cam shaft out but i still cannot get the oil pump out. could it just be really stuck in there or am i missing something??

Will upload some more pictures tomorrow when i have abit more spare time.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Thanks
Steve

[scoobyjim]

if the bolts are out and the shafts out and the pipe is off, just pull.

[AdrianNPMajor]

Steve

The pump is a snug fit in the housing. Once the locating bolts are out, just apply a little leverage. The angled teeth on the intermeshing cogs of the pump and auxiliary shaft allow the pump to come out and go back in freely, so don't worry about that.

Prime the new pump with your oil can and spin the drive cog before you fit it.

Adrian

[Fixersteve]

Have managed to get the oil pump out with some pulling, just finished steam cleaning the block.

Just got to send the crank off to have a regrind and wait for the head to come back.


Untitled by fixersteve, on Flickr


Untitled by fixersteve, on Flickr


Untitled by fixersteve, on Flickr

[JC]

Where did you buy your new oil pump? I always like to use a new oil pump when I rebuild an engine, but I wonder which is better, a 50 year old Fordson or a brand-new one made in India?

[scoobyjim]

An old one, at least it was probably made in uk lol

[JC]

Yep. That's what I was thinking.
Brian said they used to test them by trying to pump kerosene with them while turning them by hand.

[AdrianNPMajor]

Hi Steve

Your work is absolutely spot on. Take two of these out of petty cash! Oh and one of these!

Still got a big problem with your workshop though!

Loving the photos. Can't wait for the next installment.

Best

Adrian

[Mjg1705]

Very nice work- but I must ask - anyone on here reply please but my block is in exactly the same state but I've put the liners in today - I can't get the injector pump drive shaft out I've got the oil pump out but how do I remove the injector pump drive shaft ?! As I want to fit new bearings -

[JC]

mjg1705
Take off the injector pump, take the coupler off of the shaft, remove the tach drive gear, take the timing cover and gear off, then tap it out the front with a hammer and drift.

[AdrianNPMajor]

Just as JC says. Front mounting plate needs to come off too.

[Fixersteve]

Thanks Adrian! I feel like im getting somewhere now! cant wait to hear her fire up for the first time! Just out of interest where did you buy your oil pump from?? Agriline??

Oh and on the workshop i must tell you that its not actually my own workshop but where i work 9 - 5 and they just let me use it after hours

Also dropped my paperwork in to my Local DVLA office Yesterday to apply for an age related plate for the old girl, So fingers crossed it should all go through


Cheers
Steve

[Fixersteve]

Okay so im at the stage where im ready to install my new liners, but im still alittle confussed as to where i should be taking the meassurement for the protusion on the liner???
Has anyone got a picture please?? I can see in the picture from the fordson repair manual that they are using a dial indicator on the lower part of the step, as im going to use feeler gauges and a metal ruler should i put the ruler in the same possision and measure the cap beneath the rule???

Cheers
Steve

[Fixersteve]

Lovely shiny new Cylinder liners fitted! Should the shoulder on the new liner be sitting on the shoulder of the cylinder block??


Untitled by fixersteve, on Flickr


Untitled by fixersteve, on Flickr

[AdrianNPMajor]

Steve

This should help.

Best

Adrian

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[AdrianNPMajor]

Hi Steve

I fitted a Vapormatic oil pump to the NP Super. Got it from Silver Fox tractor spares. Pumps well and holds 45lbs per sq in when cold, drops to 42 after a hard day's ploughing.

Adrian

[JC]

You must have accidentally posted a page from an older manual, Adrian. That looks like the old, non-spigoted sleeves. The newer ones are measured from the lower step, like this.




You need to measure them before you install the o-rings. If they aren’t right, try switching positions of sleeves in the block. You also want to try to get sleeves of the same height next to each other, instead of having a low one between two higher ones.

[AdrianNPMajor]

Steve

Just a thought. When you've got her back together again, I'd recommend rigging up an oil gauge connected to the extra tapping point above where the oil pressure sensor sits. That way you can monitor your oil pressure precisely when you fire her up and run her in.

Adrian

[URL=http://s1216.photobucket.com/user/ ... .jpg[/img][/url]

[AdrianNPMajor]

Thanks for the correction, JC.

Best

Adrian

[Fixersteve]

Cheers guys for all your tips and advice. have got all the liners in now and they are all sitting at 0.003

I was thinking of doing exactly what you suggested with the oil pressure gauge straight into the block.

Hopefully today should get all the pistons in.

Cheers
Steve

[Fixersteve]

Im just trying to reassemble my pistons and conrods, but the conrod bushes supplied in the rebuild kit apear to be to small a diameter for the gudgoen pin to fit through??

[scoobyjim]

are they stiff or wont fit. have you measured them

[JC]

The mk. 1 engines used a 1.25" pin. The later ones use 1.375" pins. Maybe they sent you bushings for the early pins.

are they stiff or wont fit. have you measured them

[Dandy Dave]

More than often than not Bushings are sent under size and need to be reamed to fit correcty with an expandable reamer. Dandy Dave!

[Fixersteve]

Well they just wont fit, i think im going to have to give them to my dad to take to work and machine them out abit.

Bush ID 34.5mm
Pin OD 35mm

On another note just ordered new bearings for my injection pump drive from Simplybearings.co.uk for £10 inc P&P