Super Major -62

[Broadspeed]

Well well, now there's a problem with oil pressure. Yesterday I put a proper calibrated gauge and measured the pressure. Here's what I got:

Engine cold
idle 15 psi
revs 30 psi

Engine hot
idle 5 psi
revs 21 psi

Not looking good

- oil pump is old, but seemed to be ok (altough the condition of relief valve spring is big question mark)
- main bearings are std (crank is std) old bearings were also std
- cam bearings were ok

I am badly afraid that I have the same problem as here:
http://www.fordsontractorpages.nl/phpbb ... f=2&t=2632

Any ideas?

[AdrianNPMajor]

I think you buffed up the cam shaft. Could you have introduced some wear in the process perhaps? Just a wild thought.

Best

Adrian

[Broadspeed]

Just removed the oil pan and pump. Also opened one main bearing and guess what.. The block is line bored and needs main bearing shells with bigger outer diameter

During rebuild I only looked at the text std in old bearings, but the whole text was id = std and od = 0,015

Can I found those special bearings somewhere

[Pavel]

It is unfortunate that the machine shop did not fit salvage sleeves which would have allowed you to fit OEM sized replacement shells.
I would suggest that your only option is to have those shells re- white metalled. Whilst there is an excellent company in the UK [JEC White Metal Services] they have a waiting time of some 4 months.
Perhaps you could find a company closer to home.

Pavel

[Broadspeed]

Luckily the old bearings were in good condition. I changed them yesterday, and now there is good oil pressure About 35 psi with hot engine idling.

Only problem is the hydraulics. Linkage works, but won't lift it all the way up? How to adjust?

[county654]

Is enough oil in the sysem ?

[Broadspeed]

Yes the oil level is correct. And pushing that small lever under the seat, raises the linkage all the way up, mut as you release it the linkage will come down.

[Broadspeed]

Last weekend spreaded some compost with Major, and it works fine. Except the three point hitch won't work correct.

Power steering would be fine






Here's also my friends IH B275 -61

[county654]

Nice pics

Do you know how much the Horndraulik loader is able to lift?

On the Power Major I bought a couple weeks ago, the same model was mounted. I bought

[Broadspeed]

Thanks

I have to say that no idea how much it lifts.. Maybe someone here knows? At least it's able to lift the back tyres off the ground (noticed myself)

When the loader is in top position, the scoop edge is little over 3,5 meters

[Dandy Dave]

You need a backhoe to balance the loader. Dandy Dave!

[Broadspeed]

You need a backhoe to balance the loader. Dandy Dave!

You're absolutely correct

Today drove 50km to home from my friends farm

[AdrianNPMajor]

Lovely countryside. Looks even prettier from the seat of a Major!

Best

Adrian

[Broadspeed]

Looks even prettier from the seat of a Major!

Definitely yes

[Bensdexta]

Did you fix your 3 point lift?

[Broadspeed]

Not yet. Haven't got time for it. We have 12 rottweiler puppies at home now, so it's quite busy now

[Broadspeed]

Yesterday moved some gravel with Major. As I drove forwafds and backwards I noticed that the right side rear wheel looked like it is loose

So I think the rear wheel bearing is broken Can anyone give tips how to change it?


Thanks in advance

[AdrianNPMajor]

After all the work you've done, this is relatively straightforward.

Remove wheel and support at end of trmpet housing with axle stand.

Remove hydraulic lid. it's a good idea to make some dowels (get some replacement bolts, remove the heads and cut a slot in the head of the shank for a screw driver). Remove all bolts and insert four dowels to ensure that the lid comes up square for the first inch or so. This stops the oil pressure feed pipe snagging in its recess if you lift the lid in a non square fashion.

With lid off remove large castellated nut that retains the final reduction gear. Using a hydraulic jack laid horizontal, and packed out with blocks (see photo) jack the half shaft outwards until the tin seal housing at the end of the trumpet housing pops free. You can now with draw the half shaft by hand.

You now have access to the bearing. Remove bearing (if you have access to a press, that's ideal). Seal and its tinwork will also be free. Replace seal and fit new bearing. To remove bearing cup in the end of the trumpet housing run a bead of weld around inside of cup. When the weld cools, the cup will be loose enough to hook out. Renew cup.

Grease the bearing and reassemble.

Best

Adrian

[AdrianNPMajor]

Forgot to mention a couple of points.

When reassembling, fit new cork seal to end face of trumpet housing. Stick in place with Wellseal. After reinserting halfshaft into trumpet housing, replace reduction gear and nut, then squeeze seal tin housing up against the end of the trumpet housing by means of wooden wedges. When you are happy seal housing is squeezed up tight, crimp in place with blunt chisel.

Replace hydraulic lid and spend next fifty years trying to wear bearing out!

Best

Adrian


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[AdrianNPMajor]

PS You might want to inspect bearing on reduction gear. It may have sustained damage due to what was happening at the other end of the half shaft.

Best

Adrian

[AdrianNPMajor]

Oops! Forgot to say that you'll have to remove your mudguard if you wish to use the hydraulic jack method to pop the tin seal housing off the end of the trumpet housing. Alternatively, you can remove the seal using other methods.

Best

Adrian

[Brian]

You do not need dowels to align the top cover there are two studs under the lift arms that work as dowel bolts. Sometimes these come out as you undo them and stay in the lift cover. There are also two small dowels, front and back, that locate and steady the hydraulic top cover in use.

You can also drive the tin covers off with a hammer and chisel, just make sure you get the three "Stakes" that hold the seal holder in place in the groove around the trumpet housing.

Stand the lift on blocks when you get it off to avoid resting it on the control valve which hangs down a bit.

[AdrianNPMajor]

Hi Brian

The two long studs & nuts under the lift arms had rusted themselves into bolts over the years on my tractor, so I ended up treating them as such. There was enough room for the 'bolts' to unscrew but they remained captive in the lid flange. It worked okay.

The first time I raised the lid without dowels the hydraulic feed pipe got nipped and was stretched, and the two collets that hold it in position dropped into the oil . Much fun was had fishing them out! So I went for the dowel option.

Best

Adrian

[Brian]

Have you read in the "Memories" about what I did with the collets on the first Super Major lift I took off Adrian?

Yes that does happen to the studs and in that case dowel studs will be a help although I have never used any. Never had a problem with the pipe though. Must have been dead lucky.

[AdrianNPMajor]

Brian, I don't think you were lucky, more likely I was cack-handed!

Yes, I've read all of your Memories collection, including the Super hydraulic lid episode (link below). I can just see you turning over every little piece of detritus on that floor. I wish I'd read it before I made my discovery the hard way!

Re your collection I think my favourite is the episode concerning the change of clutch on the Major with the one solid steel front wheel. I'm still laughing at the picture you paint of the farmer tapping on the window of your van!

I enjoyed your collection so much that I found myself reading them very slowly and in little chunks so that they would last longer.

Best

Adrian

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/artic ... int221.htm