question about oil hole in head/block

[1su9pm6aj4]

Hello all,

I wondered if you all know where this hole empties into the pan from the upper engine block. I tried filling the engine with oil last night so I could turn it over with the starter to feed oil throughout and without the head on for easy cranking. As I poured oil in the funnel , just filled up and stayed filled. I then triggered some compressed air into the opening making sure to seal it with the tip of the air hose, still nothing. I immediately suspected I had missed something when installing the pan gasket thinking the oil comes out along that path (and maybe its does). I thought later maybe that hole goes to the cam bearing surface and feeds the cam every 360 degrees of rotation since there is a hole in one of cams ( bosses) (not sure what to call it) If that is the case maybe the position of the cam in the bearing boar was closed. I sure do not want to remove the pan again if I don't have to, and would appreciate your help before I do anything

Thanks again

Kerry

[1su9pm6aj4]

Anserwed my own question after taking another look. The hole is the supply line to the rocker arm might have a check valve in there somewhere. I Filled the engine with oil by dumping it into the cover plate area. Went down fine. Sorry for the dumb question, hope there are not too many more!

Kerry

[BearCreek Majors]

The oil will not flow unless the cam’s oil port is turned to the correct position to allow the oil to run through, and even then probably quite slowly.
I take a soda bottle with a squirt top and stick it into the hole for the oil pressure gauge/sending unit. And then after that is closed back up I spin the engine over with the valves released and the Stop pulled on the injection pump till it gets oil pressure. With your head off you should see a little spurt of oil at that hole every time the cam makes a revolution.

Pat

[1su9pm6aj4]

Good infor Pat, thanks. I tried turning the engine over last night with a charged up older car battery and unfortunately even with no head installed the engine would not turn over but a degree or two. I checked out the original batteries which are dead but still had water covering the plates. It did not identify them as 6 or 12 volt. Negative posts are tied together as a are positive posts. Its a group 84 battery which has around 560 cold cranking amps. If they are 12 volt, doesn't 12 and 12 add up to 24 volts? wouldn't that heat up the starter a bit too much? I spun the starter for about half a minute un-engaged of course, off the care battery and it gained speed slowly until it was spinning fairly fast. That was the first time it spun in at least 8 years. Guess I will have to try charging the 2 tractor batteries up and then see what happens. Don't doubt I will have to get new batteries soon but I have had luck in the past with cleaning them up with baking soda a few times over, adding acid and seeing them hold a good charge. One person a long time ago told me he rigged an old electric paint shaker to handle a care battery, cleaned it with baking soda a few times over. Told me he hadn't bought a new care battery for many years. Well thanks again for the help!


Kerry

[Brian]

Batteries connected Negative to Negative, Positive to Positive are still giving 12 Volts but have an increased Ampere hour capacity. They can deliver power for longer due to this increased storage area.

Batteries connected Negative to Positive give 24 Volts across the other two terminals but have the same storage capacity as just one of the batteries.

The battery capacity you should have is around 120 Ampere/Hour and approx 1000 Cold Cranking Amps so if you only have 500 approx. you really need a bigger battery.

Go easy with the baking soda, if it gets into the cells it will kill the battery dead, it is what we use to neutralise battery acid.

[1su9pm6aj4]

Thanks for the info Brian, and that is how the previous owner had the tractor wired up. I was just surprised by the fact that a regular fully charged car battery could not crank a headless engine over. I know the flywheel/ clutch comes in close to 100 pounds and then the tightness of the new pistons/rings adds drag also. Anyway I will proceed with getting two batteries wired up and get the thing turning.
I have a question about the power steering valve. I have it completely disassembled and cleaned. When putting it back together, there are many different positions I can bolt the sliding part of the valve in which would allow or disallow steering fluid to enter or not through the 2 steering hose ports. Maybe its O K for the valve to rotate 365 degrees as there is only a threaded stud passing through a piece of piping attached by a washer and nut. Parts of the valve are cross drilled but its easy to slid it without seeing any opening when looking at the 2 ports. Anyone have any understanding of the correct install?

Thanks much

Kerry

[Dandy Dave]

It has been a long time since I had mine apart. It needs to be assembled so that the oil flows constantly though the ports. The valve directs the oil though the ports to proper side of the cylinder when there is resistance and the valve moves. With no resistance the oil just flows in and out as neutral. I studied mine for a bit and it became clear how it worked. I put it together as such, and it has worked well for years. You can look up the parts diagram on the New Holland website. If you are unsure you have it right, you can test it with a compressed air before putting it on the tractor. Dandy Dave!

[1su9pm6aj4]

I'll do that, good idea. Thanks Kerry

[1su9pm6aj4]

Help please!. Was trial fitting the Minimic pump on my '64 super and cannot find whatever bracket holds the front side of the pump to the block. I can see where the rear of the pump bolts right on,no bracket there, but the front has to have some kind of special bracket or something. I think what happened was years ago when I had taken a bunch of parts to the powder coater and he was just getting started out of a barn and they were a bit unorganized, they misplaced the bracket and I never got it back.
I went to the New Holland website to try and find a picture of it but cannot. Could any of you point me to a link that would have a drawing of what the part looks like? Since my pump has a mechanical governor I think it might attach differently than the earlier model so a drawing of the earlier one would not help. Looks like I will be trying to source a the part from a wrecker unless anyone might have one laying around that I could buy. Looks like it would be a very hard part to make myself. Thanks again in advance for the help/suggestions

Kerry