Much better outcome than that Dave I'm pleased to say

Stripped it out this afternoon, the plug on the output shaft knocked out easily and the reason for no rotation was that the o/p gearshaft had been pushed towards the plug (big gap) & lost drive, (I wondered if when new the tacho end of this shaft was belled out in its housing after assembly to hold it in place ?? Praps Brian knows) the square in it was worn circular but a little patient work with a needle file on both 'ole and cable end has restored some degree of registration & drive, how much, time will tell, but next time its the 270 bottle!) the main reason seems to be the Bowden casing having been shortened without the cable being shortened by the same amount. the driven gear was worn a bit sharp at the edges and was not positioned mid drive gear so I gently filed the sharp edges off the teeth, skimmed the underside and shimmed out with a couple of shim washers - greased up with some Superlube (watch the UK contingent ask what that is

) and a drop of silicon oil - should see me out and then some !
Fortunately I had a slightly longer cable hanging on a nail with the casing damaged (but forward of where I needed to cut it) and one good termination gland, an abrasive disk soon cut this and after a good clean out of cable (as the gearbox) with diesel and freshly squashed air I looked at the problem of transplanting the original gearbox end ali gland which had a hexagonal crimp to the bowden casing. Turned up a drift to gently open the crimp and the inevitable happened and the old ali split

after considering turning up a new one, securing with Loctite or Araldite it dawned on me

that the assorter box of gas hose crimps I'd had cheap from ebay had some small ones in it (you know the Jubilee clip replacements with two wings that you close with carpenters pincers with a couple of steel tube 'extenders' being too mean to buy the proper ones

) well tried it and it looks & feels solid, more solid than the adhesive tape you so often used in haste...........
Cordless drill shows the actual tacho to be working over fsd (tip don''t stand them face down for safety or dust & paint flakes fall onto the inside of the glass - no doubt vibration will take care of this in due course), the back of the bezel is rolled over the flange of the can so I will not be removing this for internal attention.
May get a chance to re install tomorrow (still got a new gasket to cut) and if it works OK I can check how close to calibration it is and go back to fault finding the regulator - at least knowing if I'm at the prescribed rev's for testing or not.