Introduction from USA, Wyoming

[JonNWY]

Hello all,

I'm just starting out with my new to me Fordson Major ala' 1954. Pretty good tractor so far and I've been using the incredible amount of information on this forum since buying her a few weeks ago. I've also been downloading/reading all the manuals liked or supplied here-Thanks! The only book I've bought is the Haynes Fordson one but that's more history then repair.

When I got her with blade and single plow she has the following problems:

1)Lift arms wont stay up. I removed the hydraulic mech under the seat, cleaned, penetrating oil and replaced O-rings. I need to buy the piston seal since mine is very loose I'm thinking its bleeding by. But it holds about 75% now.

2)Hard start, needs a whiff of ether. I really hate doing this to any engine. I re-torqued the head. I'm not using the pressure release level as far as I know. What is off up or down? It also only has 1 12V with 500-600CCA I'm going to get a new 12V 1000CCA HD battery next pay day and see if this is part of the issue. AS is the generator isnt charging but I havent even put a meter on it to see whats up.

3)After plowing for about 6 hours I noticed oil sputter from the exhaust, oil pressure dropped to 20 from 40, and saw an oil leak above the timing cover. Stopped and got her in the shop found the front two push rods bent after getting a couple decades of silicone off the cover. Also plenty of engine sludge. Straightened the rods on my anvil and began sludge removal. Cleaned up the head with gas and bumping engine a couple times. Removed the old oil and soaked the heads with ATF. I dont see any stuck valves but suspect the sludge is old and caused the rods to bend. I'll add SAE30 next week and possibly add some more ATF or Marvel's to keep soaking until then.

4)Gear box had 90W gear oil in it. I know because it came with 10gallons of the stuff. I'm reading SAE30 or a new Universal Hydraulic oil should be used. Good old Tractor Supply had the new Universal for $40US for 5 gallons. So I'll add that after I finish draining the tractor. Under the gear case I removed the plug and got about 4-5g out. I know their is more assuming another plug under the rear axle. Is that correct?

It looks like http://www.fixthatford.com has what I need any reviews on them specificly the hydraulic seal? Mine is the 2 3/4" seal.

Any input is greatly appreciated,

-Jon

[Brian]

Hi Jon,
Welcome to the board, Your Major is a tough old beast and, if you post the number on the flange behind the starter or under No.1 Injector we can give you a date and confirm what you have. There were many changes over the years so the numbers and date can help as far as parts are concerned.

Couple of points:

I doubt whether sludge alone would bend the push rods, this happens if the valves stick and the piston then strikes the valves. There is little clearance between the cylinder head and the top of the piston so if the valve remains just open it can get a whack. Squirt lots of easing oil around the valves and try tapping them down with a hammer and seeing if they spring straight back up. Check to see if you have any broken valve springs.

Another thing that could bend the push rods is if someone has tried starting using the decompressor. This has always been a contentious issue but the one on the Fordson should only be used when you are using a starting handle to turn the engine over and NEVER as a starting aid. Valve gear damage can result from attempting to start using the decompressor.

If the valves are sticky this could also give you poor starting. Even with a worn engine she will normally start as the engine passes one compression. That was a feature of this engine.

If you have 90W oil then use it, do not worry about changing it for 30W. Both can be used in this tractor without problems.

There is another plug under the axle and also a filter that you can remove and wash. The drain plug is in the centre of a round plate held in with four bolts. The four bolts hold the filter in place. Be prepared to get oil down your arms as you take the plate and filter out.

I would also add a quart of Automatic Transmission Fluid to the diesel tank every time you fill up for a short while. This will clean and lubricate the fuel system. Also add a fuel stabaliser if you are running bio-diesel.

[JonNWY]

Thank you Brian. I'm using ATF as the penetration compound on the valves but I'll use a can of liquid wrench in there this weekend and check the valves. I suspect valves like you think helped by starting fluid starting.
The decompressor is off when lever is down correct and on when up?

90W gear ( about SAE 320W viscosity) not 90W hydraulic (around SAE 30W viscosity) is in the back end. That's still OK?

Thanks for the filter info I'll pull it this weekend after I get my new to me bailer JD 14T.

The last issue I forgot to mention is the fuel tank is rusted out pretty well. Running from a plastic 5g tank now. I'll probably pull the tank soon and acid clean it to see if it can be sealed or just look for a replacement. No biodiesel red dye industrial for this girl. Gotta keep my taxes down, I broke even on hay this year so I picked this girl up to work.

I only have 35 acres in Wyoming with 25+ of that irrigated, 20 for hay and 5+ next year we are going to try corn, melons, kale, and maybe something else. Right now my cutting just irrigating for winter pasture. I still have about 7 acres to plow under to overwinter.

I actually restore old vehicles for fun when not playing farmer so I'm pretty good with old stuff and rusty/gunky mechanics. I grew up ranching 25,000 acres but as a working family not the owners. This hobby farm pretty fun but I'd like it to pay my hunting and vacation funds eventually. My first elk tag opens in 2 weeks and I'll have limited free time until I filly all my tags around December.


Implement question: I was thinking about making a 3 point attachment made of heavy box 2x4" tube with swather teeth horizontally mounted for ripping out brush. Basically two rectangle shaped boxes welded together with 3 point mounted to one upright then one laying flat. Add two diagonal support bars and teeth to the drag area of the two boxes. Used to skim the surface and either cut or grab and rip out brush. Then plow under, pull rocks, , and plant. What do you think?

Thanks,

Jon

[Dandy Dave]

Welcome Aboard Matey. . As far as the brush rake goes, you may end up with a problem with the top link connection on the tractor. I have heard on here that they can be broken if put in abusive situations. Better if you get a backhoe/loader or bulldozer for the job. Dandy Dave!

[JonNWY]

Thanks Dave, I'll keep that in mind.

A dozer is on my list, as of now I'm plowing and then going back over it with a 6' blade. The brush I'm wanting out is rabbit brush about every 5' and fairly small root structure, the blade pops about 1/2 of it out easily. A disc is in my future too but I want to have all that plant matter start breaking down now to plant in the spring. I'm hoping to do about 3 acres of corn, 3 acres of melons, 1 acre of tomatoes, 2 acres of kale, maybe another acre of three of something else. The other 20 acres I'm keeping for hay, and I just bought an old John Deere 41T bailer PTO driven.


I changed the fluids this weekend, and ran her around. Promptly bend another pushrod. So off came the valve cover and a can of penetrating oil, I also went to adjust the valve's backlash and found them all to be horribly loose. No idea why they would all be THAT bad unless the guy I bought it from had tried to do it. I could easily pop out a pushrod on three cylinders by hand.

So I adjusted the valves and ran it without a valve cover and sprayed the valves while running, I think you guys nailed it as the engine got quieter and ran smoother after. After a couple weeks it might get done again. I also plowed more with it and when I buried the blade deep it didn't bag as much and when it would get stuck the tractor didn't bog and die, just bogged and got wheel spin. I'm ordering a head gasket to see if some of my starting problems are in there, and when I do I'll lap the valves. I may buy springs while I'm at it for good insurance. I have plenty of power, engine runs and burns clean as long as I don't lug her so I don't think compression is the issue. I'm also running some injector cleaner this tank and next few tanks I'll do your ATF trick.

[BearCreek Majors]

check to be sure you are getting oil up top to the rocker assembly while its running with the cover off, it wont exactly spray you down but you should see oil oozing out of the holes in the rocker arms.

Pat

[Dandy Dave]

The problem wit the top link connection is the direction of travel. As long as you are going forward, and the force is basically forward, with the exception of picking the implement out of the ground, You should be OK. When backing up into a force. Roots, Rocks, Dirt, or whatever you run a higher risk of breaking the top link connection as the force is rearward and can break the top link connection a lot easier. Think about it and you will grasp the concept. Dandy Dave!

[JonNWY]

Thanks only time I push backwards is to level gravel.

I think I licked the hard start issue. Last night I hooked two 12V 800CCA batteries in parallel and fired it up cold pretty fast two times. My single 12V didn't have enough juice to spin the 220cid fast enough to start. I also pulled the tank and pressure washed it and the tractor. When I had the tank off I filled the steering box with 90W gear oil, it had some in the bottom but I doubt its been filled in decades.

Tonight I'm going to epoxy the tank's rust hole then Red Kote it Saturday and 2nd coat Sunday. It has been soldered before is this doesn't work I'll get the tank boiled then weld a new bottom on and Red Kote again. I need to get it running again I have more work to do!

[JonNWY]

I have an old picture of a Major with a special pain job. Most I've seen are Blue/White, Blue/Orange, or Yellow. Some old pictures show greens but explain its color loss from the negatives. However I saw one Dark Green with Red lettering and highlights. Any idea what that was besides a one off job or paint codes?

[JonNWY]

Forgot to ask I have a mystery lever I'm hoping you can explain.

It's on the right side of the console directly under the throttle lever and moves up/down. It engages something but I have no idea what.

[JonNWY]

The problem wit the top link connection is the direction of travel. As long as you are going forward, and the force is basically forward, with the exception of picking the implement out of the ground, You should be OK. When backing up into a force. Roots, Rocks, Dirt, or whatever you run a higher risk of breaking the top link connection as the force is rearward and can break the top link connection a lot easier. Think about it and you will grasp the concept. Dandy Dave!

That top link mount is cast steel or cast iron? I'd assume it would break at the top link mount holes so I could weld it back on if its cast steel. I can weld cast iron but its a PITA and easier to make a new bracket I'd think.

[super6954]

Forgot to ask I have a mystery lever I'm hoping you can explain.

It's on the right side of the console directly under the throttle lever and moves up/down. It engages something but I have no idea what.

Hi
From what you say if you follow that lever it goes into a box under the fuel tank. It is the high low range lever. if you look at your gear sequence it will be 6 gears forward 2 reverse but you only have 4 positions on the main gear shift, to get the other gears you use that lever in it's sequence, High gear is down and low up, for a 54 dead drive trans.
The sequence is below as to what gears you should get and you need to clutch for all shifts, if you know about double clutching a standard box. You can shift a major with practice and not stop between forward gear shifts,if mowing or on the highway , it won't work so good with soil engaging equipment as the drag will probably stop forward motion during the shifts if your not quick .
1 low- 3 High
2 low-4 high
5 low-6 high
Rev-low
Rev- High
Regards Robert

[JonNWY]

Great thanks! I kinda thought that but wanted to ask before buggering something up.

More work on the fuel tank going to seal it today now that the epoxy has cured on the hold. Red Kote is going in. Had to bleed my FI system three times this weekend so I suspect the fuel pump gasket, and or mating surface is leaking a bit. The fuel pump return spring on the lever fell apart into three pieces while bleeding Guess I need a new fuel pump to boot when I order my gland seal, and head gasket.

Still plowed up 4 acres 2' deep.

[Kim]

We'd love to see some photos, if possible! Good luck on your enterprise.

[JonNWY]

I'll try and get some pictures soon after I get the tank back and bonnet back on. I'm still working on the hard start, it started firing up and has gone back to its old tricks.

Quick questions:

-Is there a cheaper replacement lift pump available for these? I've found a couple reman unitsw/o fuel bowl about $60 US and a replacement with fuel bowl for $120US.
-FI bleed screws, mine are beat up from monkey wrenches. Replace or use copper washers?
-The governor diaphragm is it pretty easy to get to?


I'm thinking some air may be getting sucked into the FI system and possibly some fuel bleeding into the oil. I haven't had a ton of time to work on it, I bought a John Deere 14T baler and an old swather too. Winter I'll be getting them all ready, just need to get them to my place. I have finished my plowing for fall and sealed the fuel tank.

[JonNWY]

played with the timing. According to the FAQ I'm suposed to be at 26* and was at 29*. It was hard to time since the pump would "click" into position leaving about 7* wiggle room to guess the timing. The spacer between the pump and input looks good but has some play I'm wondering if thats part of the issue. I think I'm set at 27* now timing off the click closest to the timing mark. Fire right up now.

Hooked the new baler up and immediately ripped off a tire

How tight is that spacer supposed to be when the pump/engine is turned by hand?