Uh Oh

[58vintage]

Engine out and down the bare block. Crank gone for a regrinding and all new parts arrived, let the rebuild start.

[AdrianNPMajor]

You didn't hang around!
Just a quick question which is probably unnecessary, but you wouldn't thank me for asking it afterwards! Have you removed the brass plugs either end of the longitudinal oil gallery? Cleaning out this oil gallery and the cross drilling is vital.
Will you be posting any photos?
Best, Adrian.

[58vintage]

Hi Adrian,
Yes I have a few pics just have to upload them to my computer then here.
I think I've got all the plugs as I remembered reading a topic from a guy who was doing something simular due to oil pressure problems and he forgot to. Thanks for saying it though as you said better now than after I've rebuilt it. Lol.
Also just bought a 3 furrow Ransomes TS59 to go behind it to have a play with.
Best regards,
James.

[AdrianNPMajor]

Hello James
It would be a good idea to replace the bearings and seal on the fuel injection pump drive. The bearing behind the seal is likely to be a bit slack by now due to the ingress of dust as the seal became worn.
What about the oil pump? Will you replace it? There are two schools of thought. I favour fitting a new one. Sorry, more expense!
You'll have fun with the plough. It will be an excellent way of bedding in the engine after you've gone through the preliminary tests.
Best, Adrian.

[URL=http://s1216.photobucket.com/user/ ... .jpg[/img][/url]

[URL=http://s1216.photobucket.com/user/ ... .jpg[/img][/url]

[58vintage]

I was thinking of putting new seals, bearings and oil pump as every thing else will be new bar the block, fuel pump and injectors. What are people's argument about keeping the old oil pump?
Best regards,
James.

[Brian]

This question comes up on a regular basis. The Ford prescribed method of testing the oil pump is to stick the pick up in a bucket of paraffin and spin the pump with your hand at about 60 rpm. If it picks up the paraffin there is nothing wrong with the pump.

I have used this method countless times over the years and never had a problem. When I overhauled Henrietta a couple a few years ago I did the same thing. With Morris's 20/50 vintage tractor engine oil she runs at between 30/40 psi. Even when she is hot, and believe me, a paraffin E1A runs hot! the oil pump is 1952 vintage.

If your pump has a relief valve and spring incorporated in the pump then take it out and check the spring is not broken or the valve stuck.

I have more faith in an old pump than I have in one from the Land of Nearly Right.

[58vintage]

Hi all,

Work on the Power Major slowed for a bit with the early arrival of my second son Harry.
I decided to keep the original oil pump and go thicker with the oil and am going to give Morris 20/50 a go as people are getting good results with it. I decided to send the block off and get it professionally cleaned and checked. At the same time I decided to check the dual clutch as everything was already in bits and there was a large amount of ware on the plates and fingers. So I've ordered a stronger modified clutch from agriline as a replacement. Out of quriosity is a well worn dual clutch that needs a referb worth anything? All I have to do is put it all back together as all I managed to do before Harry arrived was build up the referbed head with new bits.

[oehrick]

Congrats on the new arrival James, you'll be needing to get started on a dexta soon I guess

BTW Fords # 1 & 2 would have approved your choice of name

[AdrianNPMajor]

Congratulations, James. Exciting times!
Best, Adrian.

[58vintage]

Thanks Gents.

Just wondering should a Power Major have a 2 or 4 blade cooling fan fitted?

[Brian]

Two blade was standard, four blade was tropical kit or Petrol/Kerosene.

[58vintage]

Thanks Brian.

Mine has 2 but I'd seen front and rear bolt together blades to make a four blader and wondered if my 2 blades were correct.

[guduell]

Please let us know your opinion on the new clutch.

And congratulations!

[58vintage]

Thanks.

The new clutch will be going in tomorrow night with any luck.
It's meant to be a stronger design with a slightly lighter action to the 2nd stage (pto stage), they've assured me that it's not overly light. Its meant to be easier to setup as well as all the little coil springs have been replaced by a couple of diaphragm springs. We'll see though once fitted and she's up and running. Looks a well made piece of kit though and has no alloy parts like the original, so it's all steel.

[58vintage]

As I'm progressing with the rebuild my mind is wandering to the gearbox and back end. I've done all this work on the engine etc and not touched the other casings, though i was going to give it a full back half oil change. As the tractor is still spilt is there anything worth doing to or in the back end and gearbox? Everything worked as should when I tested her at purchase and no drippy leaks. If I've gone this far though are there any bearings etc worth changing in there?
Also I've had a little break from engine work and re-pinned the front axle and stearing so that's now nice and tight again. I've also painted up the new mudguards, tool box and given my recently aquired Ransomes TS59 J a lick of paint. I bought a 1 litre can of Ransomes blue and it looks suspiciously like Fordson Empire blue which I already have 5 litres of.

[AdrianNPMajor]

Hello James
You are doing a very thorough job. I hope you are taking photos so that the service history of your tractor is not lost.
There's a couple of leaks that can occur, actually will occur sooner or later, and they do not manifest themselves externally. There are two seals between gearbox and rear axle that eventually give up the ghost. When they do, the higher oil level in the gearbox drops as the oil leaks into the rear axle, leaving a bearing at the back of the gearbox high and dry. This bearing then fails.
If you feel up for it, and given what you've done so far I get the impression you will be (!), it would be a good idea to replace these seals, which involves splitting the tractor between gearbox and rear axle. More info and photos if you take the plunge.
Best, Adrian.

[58vintage]

Hi Adrian,

I'll have ro pull my finger out and get some pics loaded onto my laptop then onto here.

Right as my FPM is split between engine and gearbox I'm better putting those bits back together and respliting it between gearbox and back end, or I'm going to have to many bits to support. Wouldn't like to topple over the gearbox and Crack the casing lol.
Any nasty surprises involved in splitting the gearbox and back end? Or is it much the same as the I've already done?
Also do you think a live drive clutch that needs new plates and maybe fingers is worth anything?

Best regards,
James

[AdrianNPMajor]

Hi James
If you're up for splitting the tractor between gearbox and rear axle, it's not a problem to place blocks under the forward edge of the rear axle housing and then remove the gearbox. With the gearbox free of the tractor, assuming you have the lifting gear, you can put the gearbox upside down on the bench and do the lower seal with a lot more ease than doing it with the gearbox still attached to the engine [this method assumes the removal of the steering box, primary gear lever housing and battery tray]. The seal is located in the PTO housing slung under the gearbox. Removing the PTO housing with the gearbox still in situ is easy - gravity comes to your aid. Replacing it is a different matter. There's a large O ring involved that seals the PTO tunnel. Keeping this in place whilst you struggle to locate the PTO housing lying on your back is doable but not the best experience.
I've done both and I know which option I prefer, though the second is only really justifiable if you are doing a full strip down, which you are contemplating and are only a few steps away from. The latter option allows you to have a good look at how things work and it requires a narrower knowledge of Anglo-Saxon!
The second of the two seals to be replaced is located on the rear face of the gearbox and is just as easy to replace with both approaches.
Photos of all of this available if you need them.
Good luck!
Best, Adrian.

[AdrianNPMajor]

Apologies James, I didn't answer your double clutch question. I have no experience of the double clutch so I can't be of any help in this area.
Best, Adrian.

[guduell]

Is there no seal in the front of the gearbox that could be worth changing?

In my live drive the two input shafts seem to stick together. Although the traktor stops at first clutch step, to change gear I now have to press the pedal down through pto level. If your shafts do not move freely independent that might be investgateable. I hope mine will behave decent one more year before splitting...

[58vintage]

Sounds like I'm best to use my lifting gear and spilt it further so I can flip the gearbox upside down etc. Just found an old 45 gallon drum that I can drain the 40 litres into. Just now need to order oil to replace it. One question though. As I'm switching to thicker Morris Lubricants 20/50 as people seem to get good results and a good increase in oil pressure. Is this stuff to thick to put in the back end?

Guduell,
When the old clutch came out it operated fine and operated as should. Cannot say about the new one yet as the tractor is still in bits so I haven't used the new one yet.

[guduell]

Ok. I meant that it could be good to check that the two input shafts are not sticking together and their seals are good. (Theoretic speculations. I do not know the cause of my symptoms.)

[AdrianNPMajor]

Hi James
When you split the gearbox away from the rear axle housing you may need to make some thin steel wedges to separate the two - if it hasn't been split before, as it almost certainly hasn't, it may hold on the original gasket sealer.
When you have it apart, and whilst the rear axle is drained, you may as well replace the seals on the brake/clutch pedal shaft. Another job, but a cheap and easy one.
Best, Adrian.

[AdrianNPMajor]

Sorry about this, but I do like making work - well, for other people, you understand!
With the gearbox detached from the rear axle, ideally you would remove the hydraulic lid, spray the floor of the rear axle housing with degreaser, then power wash the dirt out of the front end of the housing. You would then have a pristine environment into which to introduce your not-cheap new oil.
Remove and clean hydraulic pump basket filter also.
Best, Adrian.

[AdrianNPMajor]

Re the above, before and after photos.
By the way, and apologies for not mentioning it earlier, to remove the PTO housing located below the gearbox and before splitting the gearbox away from the rear axle housing you'll need to remove the PTO shaft. Undo four bolts holding the PTO flange in place and withdraw shaft.
Best, Adrian. :thumb

[URL=http://s1216.photobucket.com/user/ ... .jpg[/img][/url]

[URL=http://s1216.photobucket.com/user/ ... .jpg[/img][/url]