Rebuilding a fuel injection pump

[Fordson 60]

I am in the proces of stripping down and rebuilding the injection pump.
I was thinking that some people might be interested in how the pump inner parts fit together.
So ill take some pictures during the proces of stripping rebuilding and callibrating.
The callibratong part is going to be done in a creative way youll see it when i get there

First picture of the completely stript pump.


And a few pictures of damage created by fitting wrong bearings and penetration of water.
The wrong bearings where to wide but they tryed to fit them anyway so they broke of a piece of the bearing lid.
Then they fitted it with a spacer so the cam was not in the center of the plungers.
That created a rotating force on de cam rollers so the pump housing got worn out and the cam rollers where able to rotate.
And then there is the damage from water creating pitting in the camshaft.
In other words this pump is beyond repair.








But today i got me another pump. The guy i bought this pump from had it laying around for 20 years.
In this pump the pumping elements are probably rusted but the ones in my old pump are in reasenble condition.

When i get to stripping the other pump and putting together the best parts of both pumps ill be placing new pics of the work in progress.
Hopfully ending up with a callibrated working pump.

The donor pump:

Dont laugh over my spelling never been typing in other language but dutch

[oehrick]

Welcome to the Forum Ronald and good luck with the pump rebuild, not many may have done this as maintaining the cl eanliness of the parts and surroundings when re assembling in not practical in most home workshops - are you in the injection / hydraulics business and have facilities at work or are you just going to hope you do not get any dust contamination ??

Either way I shall follow the project with interest

Your English on this and your introduction are fine and understandable!

[henk]

Keep posting. I'm curious.
I have changed the camshaft once at a pump and it worked well.
Don't reset the rack.

[Fordson 60]

Tonight I got a bit of shed time so stript the donor pump.
The cam and bottom housing part of the pump are in good shape to be reused.
So at this stage i have got al the parts to rebuild.


This cam looks a lot better also the original bearings are up for another run.


The rack is already dismanteld
But that is not a real problem im going to use the pump elements of the first pump because they are larger in diameter.
By using different parts from 2 pumps im going to need phasing and flowing the new build pump.
Phasing is not so hard using the spil cut off en 90 degree angel on the pump shaft there is a tolerance of 1 degree so should not be to hard to do.
Flowing the pump so every cilinder gets the same amount of fuel is another story.
Going to build me some kind of test stand using a motor with frequency regulated speed.
Probaly fitting the injectors to the pump and measure the amount of fuel after a few minutes of running.
Got a picture in my mind of what it should look like.
No just have to build it

The cleanroom putting it together part I am not to consernd about just keep rinsing and use of compresed air with some common sense should work out.
Paying extra atention to the parts where the fuel flows like fuel gallery and pumping parts.

Im more concerned about my litle helper trowing parts around the workshop so I can not find them


Now first a few evenings of cleaning. That is if i get some free time on my hands.

[oehrick]

Your 'helper' is just the right age to learn without even realising it Ronald - as long as you find all the bits

As Henk, watching with great interest

[BearCreek Majors]

Keep an eye on that helper, it wont be long and he will be showing you how to do it!

As Brian has stated several times , this is a job for the professionals, and I agree with him 100%, But....
If you have STRONG mechanical skills, a ford shop manual and/or other literature and specs, I believe you can build a good working pump with a little creativity and some good used parts.

Be sure to use the larger injectors (I believe.011) if the pump has 7.5 plungers, and set the cracking pressure on the low side if the pump is a little weak. There was a bearing vendor on Ebay that had the bearings but I lost the contact info, I believe they are commonly referred to as magneto bearings.

This is the setup that I use, although I have yet to finish one. I may have one to many irons in the fire.
I use the degree wheel with a wire pointer to set the spill off. This lathe already has a VFD to control the speed so I was going to hook a high speed counter to the prox switch to stop it at the preset counts.
I originally planned on setting up a little rack with graduated beakers but then I stumbled across this 4 cylinder rack on ebay for like $15.00..... I know, I suck.

And most importantly, Keep it clean!!!

Pat

[BearCreek Majors]

Also, check the cam on your donor pump, it looks like an early one that is timed like 10° or 15° different, as the pumps were mounted straight up and down.
as bad as your old cam looks,with good rollers on the lifters you'd be surprised how long it would hold up in a tractor that doesn't have to work for a living.

Pat

[Fordson 60]

The larger plungers where already on this engine so the larger injectors should be to I think.
Wil check to be sure.
Got myself a injector pop tester to set the presure. think at first I will set them at 175atm and see what happens.
If the pump is weak adjust them down and if it looks fine set them to 185 atm. The max presure acording to the fordson manual.
I read about the angel being changed somewhere along the history of ford but not why it has chanced I suspect its got to do with bleeding the air out but not sure thats why it chanced.
It was 10 degree and should be able to be corected by the pump coupling acourding some paper i read.
Today I made me a degree wheel and did some thinking about the teststand at work. No shed time tonight

After a day of work with the temperature of today I was tempted to drink a few in the backyard

Looks like you have a nice workshop there Pat.
A few years ago I did also have a lathe but was far to big for this shed was at my parents place 1750mm between centers. But then they moved and i sold it

[Brian]

I stay away from advising on all injection pump problems because they are beyond the normal range of a DIY tractor mechanic. As has been said, if you do not have the dust proof room and the setting equipment there is the distinct possibility of doing terminal damage to the rest of your engine. Although I have been trained as a pump repairer, I would never work on my own pump without the proper equipment.

We do have a certain responsibility on this board not to advise people to do work that is beyond what can be fixed in a normal workshop and with normal tools.

We have had one member advise removing stuck pump plunges with a hammer and punch which ended with another member having to buy a new injection pump.

Saying all that though, it is your tractor and you can do whatever you like but if you see something on here and decide to have ago yourself, the owners of the board bear no responsibility for the outcome.

Moderator Hat now off.

The reason for changing the camshaft in the earlier pumps is because they caused the engine to run backwards in certain circumstances such as recovery from a near stall. In one case a driver was killed when the engine ran backwards and blew up. I have had some experience of this happening and you have to be very quick to get something like a piece of wood or a rag over the exhaust pipe to stop the air flow.

The injectors were changed to a larger version then changed back to the smaller one which covers all Majors.

Not like the old Field Marshal tractor, the first thing that told you she was running backwards was when you found you had three reverse gears and one forward instead of the other way round.

[58vintage]

The Nozzle changed on the injectors to. Earlier ones had nozzle NL144 and later ones definitely by power major had NL123 nozzles. They have different orifice sizes and different spray angles. The latter having a smaller orifice to give a more atomised stream and hence better more complete burn and more power. I cannot remember the difference in spray pattern angles.

[Fordson 60]

I would not play around with the injection pump in my car but in this case there is not alot that could go wrong and if this not ends wel I can always get me a good rebuild pump.
Altough I am thinking there are farmers replacing fuel filters and they probaly get some dust inside, The risk of dirt in the pump is not only when dismanteling it.
If you can work in a fairly clean workshop on this old style pump it should be okay.
I more woried about setting the parts in the right tolerances and the pump deliviring the right amount of fuel at the right time.

Having said that.
Did not do mutch to the pump only cleand the cambox, camshaft and tappets. Asembled the bottom parts to see end play on the camshaft and see if the tappets slide snugly in the cambox.
The tappets are fine no play to speek of.
The end play on the camshaft is a bit to mutch so have to sjim the bearing I could also mill a bit of the cambox a tent of a mm on both side's and then it should be fine to.

Also need to drill a hole in the side of the cambox the newer part with the fuel button has an extra bolt in it


Did get around to building a piece of the the teststand need to figure out now how to rig the pump in a stable way.


Also decided to get rid off engine parts laying around so i bolted the parts to the engine set the rockers to 0.38mm fild her up with oil and smoked the starter leads.
But after priming the oil pump via the hole from the oilfilter got a oil pressure of nearly 2 atm with smoking leads and a not realy fast crancking startermotor.
So I am happy with the result of the rebuilding this far. Now to get her running.

[Brian]

Another point about pump servicing.

We never let the components get dry and never touched them with bare hands. As we stripped the pumps the parts were cleaned in paraffin and then put in a bath of Fusus oil for storage whilst the rebuild took place. So all the parts were kept away from the air and no rust could form on them. When pumping diesel at 2500 psi with a metal to metal seal the interface must be perfect. The pumping elements should all be kept together not stored separately too.

One demonstration that has stuck in my mind for over 50 years now was our instructor taking a pumping element apart then holding the barrel in one bare hand and the element in the other as he explained them to us. After about five minutes in his hand the element would no longer fit in the barrel. Impressive little demonstration of the clearances involved.

[Fordson 60]

I do most work with latex gloves just becouse youre hand are imposible to clean after a few hours of wrencing so I doing the right thing
The tolerances are indeed very small I noticed with the small elemenst I am not using.
You only have to get them a litle bit warmer and they wont fit in the barrel anymore
Everything on my bence gets sprayd wit silicon sprat to prevent the rusting
Its a common thing to do in the tool and die shop at work

In my day job I am working with plunger pumps going up to 600 bar 8700psi
So I am a bit formiliar with the subject

[oehrick]

You've been teasing us Ronald you already know HP pumps !

Nice work on the engine so far !

[58vintage]

If you are going to use the injectors to test the delivery quantities please be careful as although they aren't running at the 2500bar that cp3 is running at you could still get nasty injuries like diesel under the skin etc at this systems 200bar.
As a side note when we test the modern commonrail pumps and injectors the test bench has a bulletproof case that goes round it, that won't allow the test to start unless it's closed and locked. The manufacturer says that a 2500 bar leak from a pump or injector would put a hole in you.

[Fordson 60]

I like to think that people who will pull something like a injection pump apart know what there capable of.
Looking at myself I always like to read in to the things that I never had apart but does look somewhat complicated to me before I am going to work on it.
To this point its not realy rocket science its just a straight inline pump.

But everybody needs to deside for themselfes if they want to work on the injectionpump after they thought over what will happen if they screw up.
No need for making people scared of trying to diy the pump.
just my thoughts about it

These are the plungers on the pumps I am 'n working with placed it next to a simms plunger


At the moment I have the pump ready for phasing. The camshaft is within tolerance for the endplay skimt a few hundertst of both sides of the cambox until i got right in the middle of the tolerance quoted by simms.
Not having shims and the tool to remove the bearings without damage, skimming the cambox whas the next best thing to diy endplay on the camshaft.
Now first finish the teststand before I can go further.

Cheers

[oehrick]

What are you pumping with those Ronald, oil for movement or water for jet cutting ?

I don't know if it has lost something in translation but the reason we keep adding comments regarding safety is because all sorts of people find and use information from this site without always introducing themselves and discussing the job they would like to do. Because of both the precision of the parts in the injector pump and the risk of injecting diesel through the skin, which at best usually results in an amputation and at worst death.

Those people who have little or no knowledge of this sort of activity in general are at risk of mimicing the test set up you have evolved but without your knowledge of where the hidden dangers of the oil from the injector or as 58vintage notes the risk from a cobbled together leaking pipe or a leaking connector equivalent hole size to project a jet at random in any direction.

While this forum can be a lot of fun there is a serious purpose behind it which we try to take more seriously for those who follow us without either the experience or the understanding - you are not the target

I had an accident a few months back which I shared with the chaps here, I had to change the motor bearings on our 25 yr old Hotpoint washing machine, not a big bearing, I had the shaft clamped in an outdoor vice and used a small 3 jaw screw bearing puller and a 150mm spanner. With very little torque applied there was a crack like a rifle being fired and something smashed into my eye, via my ordinary prescrtiption spectacles, it was the ball in the picture below. No damage was done thankfully - after I had picked and washed the glass fragments out of my eye.

I subsequently worked out that during my life I have probably changed upwards of 5-6000 bearings, from tiny things in gyro's through the normal range of tool and machinery bearings to large industrial components and while I have often had to sledgehammer, grind, cook or flame cut to release using hydraulic pullers or presses developing 50 - 100T force not a single one of them had ever 'exploded' like this with no significant force applied. I would wear protective glasses or goggles appropriate to the risk if striking or grinding or burning but not changing a small motor bearing on a clean shaft. I circulated this through several colleagues, friends, aquaintances in various parts of the world and not one would have considered this as a job really needing eye protection. I reach for the safety specs a little more often now and if seeing this photo encouraged anyone else to do the same who knows, it may save an eye same with the tractor stuff. Very often a photo will be put up only for others to point out things which might not be best practice or dangerous we all learn as a result of others experiences and there must be decades if not centuries among the forum members.

That is what the various safety comments being made on this thread are for, not as a warning to you but as a general warning to those who read this and might try what you are doing but without your / our experience of how to avoid damage to self or the tractor parts to make that choice with 'a full deck of cards'

One of my roles has been to train meat factory and butchery staff on the safe use of bandsaws, many having done the job longer than I have been alive and often resenting their being forced to go to 'school' for a day - I found the most effective way to get their attention at the start was to introduce myself then raise both open hands and ask 'how many fingers am I holding up and how many of them are yours?' that generally held their attention for the first hour

[58vintage]

Oehrick, that is exactly one of the reasons I posted.

Fordson 60. Whilst this comment is not directed at you personally I have to pick up on you saying you'd think someone who'd pull an injector pump apart would know what it's capable of. I would say the majority have no clue in the UK at least, the knowledge of the gentlemen here are the exception to the rule. In the 54 years we have been dealing with pumps and injectors from older than the simms on our fordsons to just coming online CP4 the ignorance of the hobbler and have a go farmer/ small agriengineer is astounding. You quite simply would not believe the dangerous stuff we get through the door.

[dewaltdisney]

Crikey Rick, that was a close call. I would never have thought a bearing could fly out like that just with a puller. I have found this thread very interesting and I did not realise the pressures that these pumps can generate, it is quite frightening really. I wonder what pressures the common rail diesel engines of today must be, they woudl take your head off?

Seeing that ball bearing reminded me of a totally unrelated close call I had quite a few years back. I have an old percussion smooth bored musket and I was firing marbles out of it (they were a good fit for the bore) over a local farm where I used to shoot. I was about 50 foot away from a heavy gate post and I shot at it. The marble ricocheted almost straight back and I felt the pressure wave as it passed by my ear. Another inch and I would have been a gonner. Stupid when I look back but I guess that was 50 years ago now and I was still a kid. Shows how things have changed regarding firearms, shotgun certificates did not come in until 1968.

DWD

[Fordson 60]

I had that happen to with bearings and 3 jaw pullers, your pulling on the outer ring so it wants to expand because the balls want to go up the side of the path there running in.
Eversins I had a bearing explode like that i put a thick cloth around the bearing if its pullled on the outer ring.
It scary to discover on this way how much energie you create with a puller.

Have been working on the pump today.
Phasing the pump is a pain in the butt but it workt out after reasembling for tree times
I will post some pictures and info later.

Ronald

[Fordson 60]

Okay here come the pictures.


First i needed to put the pump on a frame and I needed a degree wheel.
The frame became two simpel pieces of angel iron clamped everything to the working bench and fill it out
To aligne the motor and pump.
Then i printed out a degree wheel and stuck it on a sheet of stainles steel I grinded to a circle and bolted it on the axle driving the pump.

Then first set cilinder one on spill cut off and set the degree wheel on zero and then recheck the position for 2 times just to be sure.
Then went tru all 4 cilinders and marked the position on the wheel.
I found out there was a diverence so had to adjust. But how???? having no parts to replace simms has phasing spacers in de tappets. But not on my shelf
So I measered the amount of what would be needed to get the spil of at 90 degree increments.
I then disasembled the pump and put the tappets ,plungers and there barrels in another order so it would be posible to lap off the tappet spacers to get the spil of to the right 90 degrees between cilinders
So reasemble mark the spil of position again measering again and then take it apart lap of a few hundertst of the tappet spacer put it back togheter again.
Kept me busy for a few hours but workt it out to 0.5 degrees.

So no take it apart again to fit the springs and the shim between the bottom spring seat and the plunger I was lucky to have the shims from the other pump so i could fill everything out to the right amount of play.



I put a new mark on the pump coupling for timing the pump on the engine



Let it run for a bit without the valves so it would flush out any dust that i missed with cleaning

https://youtu.be/A-alBjwaZ4M

Put in the valves
put in the fuel rack and stop exces fuel button
Then put the rod forks on a position by eye.
And then let it run again at half trotle and low rpm
The result was not even realy bad


Now set the injectors to the right pop presure and i should be ready for calibrating the flow.

Ronald

[58vintage]

Crikey Rick, that was a close call. I would never have thought a bearing could fly out like that just with a puller. I have found this thread very interesting and I did not realise the pressures that these pumps can generate, it is quite frightening really. I wonder what pressures the common rail diesel engines of today must be, they woudl take your head off?

Seeing that ball bearing reminded me of a totally unrelated close call I had quite a few years back. I have an old percussion smooth bored musket and I was firing marbles out of it (they were a good fit for the bore) over a local farm where I used to shoot. I was about 50 foot away from a heavy gate post and I shot at it. The marble ricocheted almost straight back and I felt the pressure wave as it passed by my ear. Another inch and I would have been a gonner. Stupid when I look back but I guess that was 50 years ago now and I was still a kid. Shows how things have changed regarding firearms, shotgun certificates did not come in until 1968.

DWD

We repair and test these at work. Common rail gen 3 (cp3) depending on application up to about 2200 to 2500 bar so multiply by 14.7 I think for psi. New common rail gen 4 (cp4) up to 2750 bar. The test bench has a bulletproof case round it and will not start until it senses the case shut and locked. A leak from a pump or injector would bore a hole in you.

[oehrick]

You are making some good progress there Ronald - and nice informative pictures for us - thanks

[Fordson 60]

I ran into a small problem setting the pop presure on the injectors.
When I had the head skimmed and new valveseats and guides placed, the shop also tested the injectors and replaced one nozzle.
Now I was setting the presure to 2700psi i noticed only the new nozzle opend with a nice crack the old injectors opend with a small jet and then a fuel mist.
So orderd 3 new nozzles and rebuild the injectors.



Then they where al set to 2700 psi sligthly above the 185 bar.
Fitted everything to the pump and got al the air out of the system.
Now for a test run first without the rubber tubbing on the nozzle would not advise for anyone to try it
I was amazed by the amount of diesel mist from the injector so went out of the shed an let the fumes air out.

Later I fitted rubber hoses to the injectors and put a few botles under them to catch the diesel.
Let it run for a while and set the forks so that al the injectors would start injecting on the same time.
Setting them all against the fuel shut off so to speak

https://youtu.be/X62AZ3I97BI

I now need a rpm counter and someway to measure the amount off fuel comming out of the pump.
I am thinking a nice presision scale to weight the amount of fuel.
First weiging the empty bottles and note the weight and calculated the amount of fuel after a while running and calculate the weight to liters.

It wil need some adjusting this was the result after a bit of running wilst playing with rpms and the rack and with and without exces fuel button



Ronald

[oehrick]

For measuring small amounts of liquid I tend to use a small medical syringe

I have a cheap bycycle speedometer which reads a magnet rotating with the wheel, when I have needed to wind turn matched coils on my lathe I have stuck a magnet on the chuck and positioned the sensor to read it and set the meter to revs - it may have come from Aldi or Lidl special offer but ebay will locate you one I'm sure.

Does the variable speed inverter driving your motor have a feedback input ? some of the digital inverters I've seen have this to alter the low frequency waveform to compensate for slippage and can display rpm as an option rather than frequency or current - may be Fujitsu who supply the IMO branded units in the UK.