Gasket for Cylinder Head Water Outlet

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 5:27 pm

Where can I get a gasket for my cylinder head water outlet - see photo?

Thanks,
Ben

henk · Post by **henk** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 5:52 pm

Hello Ben,

It's easy to make one yourself, if you know how thick it must be. If you want to know how, just let me know.

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 8:02 pm

henk wrote:Hello Ben,
It's easy to make one yourself, if you know how thick it must be. If you want to know how, just let me know.

Henk,
Many thanks for your reply.
Yes please can you tell me how and what material to use.
Thanks again,
Ben

henk · Post by **henk** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 9:04 pm

Hello Ben,

I have made several gaskets for the lift cover and valve assembly.
First of all you have to get the right gasket paper. There are a few different sorts and thickness. I think a garage supplier or a tractor dealer will have it.
Cut a peace out that’s a little bigger than the part you want to seal.
Make the surface a bit dirt with old grease or oil. Put the gasket on the surface and press with your thump around the edges of the surface and holes. Be shore not to move the gasket paper. This way you will make the pattern visible. Cut the holes first with a hollow pipe. Don’t know the right name for the tool.

May be you have to make one. Use a pipe with the right inner size. Grind an edge on the outside. Make the holes in the gasket by hammering the pipe through the paper on the head side (not the side) of a peace of wood. Try to do this in one time.
Than cut out the inner part of the gasket with a pair of scissors. Than cut out the outside. Don’t make the holes at the end, you will ruin your gasket. Practise on a normal paper before using the gasket paper.The thicker the paper, the harder to make.
Hope you will understand the way to do it, and good luck.
Let me know if it worked for you.

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 1:11 am

Henk,
Very many thanks for an excellent description. I will get some gasket paper and do it!
Thanks again,
Ben

Meanderer · Post by **Meanderer** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 1:55 am

The tool is called a Wad Punch. It's good to have a set of them. Pretty cheap to buy. When using the wad punch on a block of wood, use the end grain of the block. Best if you put your block of wood upright in a vice. The end grain affords better penetration and a cleaner cut to the material your cutting and preserves the cutting edge as well.

Another way if you if don't have a wad punch is to cut out a piece of gasket paper that is bigger than the job. Place onto the component. Use the ball of a small ball pein hammer to tap where the holes are one at a time. Use the ball to tap where the edge of the hole is so that the action causes the hole to be cut by the edge of the hole itself. Do one hole at one end, put a neat fitting bolt through as a locator until you have another whole at the other extremity. Another bolt in there will keep the whole thing located while you finish all the holes.

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 9:50 am

Rick,
Thanks for your post.

How critical is the thickness of the gasket paper? I'm guessing that it's better to have the paper too thick than too thin?

Thanks again,
Ben

Meanderer · Post by **Meanderer** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 11:18 am

Ben,
I think 0.5mm is what you want.
You will need a sealant to go with it. You can buy old fashioned "glues" but these days you can use sealants that replace gaskets althogether. Just got to buy a reliable one (small tube) and follow the instructions carefully. i.e. very clean surfaces, an even bead of sealant and join when they advise on the instructions. Some require the partially tighten the joint, wait until sets more then complete the clamping.
I can't remember the brand of the one I used 12 months ago on our car's thermostat housing. I remember the tube cost about AU$17.00 and I used a tiny amount with great success. Probably enough to do your job 25 times over.
Best you go into a Autoparts Store and look at the range and get advice from them.

henk · Post by **henk** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 11:30 am

Meanderer wrote:The tool is called a Wad Punch. It's good to have a set of them. Pretty cheap to buy. When using the wad punch on a block of wood, use the end grain of the block. Best if you put your block of wood upright in a vice. The end grain affords better penetration and a cleaner cut to the material your cutting and preserves the cutting edge as well.

Rick,

This is what I wanted to say but did not know how to explain it. Manny Thanks.
The second way of doing the job have to be done in a careful way. If you do it wrong you can damage the surface.

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 12:04 pm

henk wrote:This is what I wanted to say but did not know how to explain it. Manny Thanks.
The second way of doing the job have to be done in a careful way. If you do it wrong you can damage the surface.

Henk/Rick,
You explained very well! I just have to get some paper now. It seems pretty cheap on ebay.
All the best,
Ben

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Mon Mar 16, 2009 1:13 am

Do I need special waterproof gasket paper as it's for the cooling system?
Thanks for your help,
Ben

Meanderer · Post by **Meanderer** » Mon Mar 16, 2009 2:39 am

Ben,
I think all gasket materials are waterproof. Having said that, there are many grades for different services. Some are more compressible than others too. For this application it needs to handle water at low pressure and steam. It would be oil resistant too. I think it could be 0.4mm or 0.5 mm.
You mentioned earlier about getting it on eBay. I wouldn't go there for this product. I'd just go along to an Auto Parts supplier and tell them the job. They'll put there hands straight on it!!!! Do you have an auto place that sells things from car polishes to foglights, seat covers and the like? Those places would sell it and also the sealant stuff I mentioned.

Meanderer · Post by **Meanderer** » Mon Mar 16, 2009 7:04 am

Meanderer wrote:When using the wad punch on a block of wood, use the end grain of the block. Best if you put your block of wood upright in a vice. The end grain affords better penetration and a cleaner cut to the material your cutting and preserves the cutting edge as well.

COINCIDENCE! I've just come back from going to my young cousins farm about 20km away. He was putting eyelets into a tarp. It was a really cheap and nasty eyelet kit he'd bought. I saw that there were a few rings cut into the side of a block of wood. I asked what caused them. His reply, The little punch (tubular wad punch) that you use to put a hole in the fabric. I told him he'd be better off using the end of the wood and why. He replied that after those 3 holes he had to use the grinder to sharpen it again. Now using the end of the wood, he did another 25 holes and the punch is almost as sharp as it started out.
I just thought that was such a coincidence to happen in that time frame.

Tubal Cain · Post by **Tubal Cain** » Mon Mar 16, 2009 8:22 am

Ideally you should use the thinnest gasket possible, Royal Naval practice was face to face without a gasket just a smear of paste!

In this instance you would probably get away with a gasket cut from a Corn Flakes packet, provided that both faces are clean and flat. A good smear of grease will help. Remember that the UK Dextas do not have a pressurised cooling system.

At sea we used to collect the old navigation charts from the Mate for use in the engine room, they made excellent gaskets.

Gerald

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Mon Mar 16, 2009 3:35 pm

All, Many thanks, Ben

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Gasket for Cylinder Head Water Outlet

Gasket for Cylinder Head Water Outlet

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