quick hello
quick hello
just saying hi, new to this site but not new to fordson tractors had them for years! heres a few pics of dextas i've got now
Last edited by dexta4 on Sat Jul 11, 2009 10:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
thankyou, the 59 dexta i've had for 18 years, it was restored 16 years ago then last year the engine was totally rebuilt using perkins bits and a new clutch and was resprayed too, the 61 dexta has had engine rebuilt 2 years ago again using perkins parts it was in a bad state even the timing gears had to be replaced! new clutch , front axle been rebushed and new pins and bolts, just need to sort a few leaks out on the gear box then it will be sprayed up too. the super dexta has had a top end rebuild and new piston rings and big end shells the bores were ok so left them, new hydrolic pump and some new valves all new tin work i managed to find a genuine cowling and bonnet that had never been fittedBensdexta wrote:Beautiful tractors!
How much work have you done on them?
Welcome aboard,
Ben
it had a loader on so the front axle was pretty worn so had all new parts too thats it i think prob missed some out 
sometimes you need 4!!!
cheers ! the david brown is a 1955 25d, 25 hp 4 cyl diesel engine, based on the crop master but with improvents like traction control(tcu) which works very well, david brown invented his own hydrolic system too to avoid paying ferguson to use there system although db built fergusons tractor for them hence the name ferguson brown.. my 25d has had 1 owner from new but it had a very hard live covering 20000 hours its last job was on the muck scraper it had to be filled with hot water everyday before it would start! its very last job was taking tyres up the silage rick when the clutch failed and it went off the edge smashing the front in!! it was that ruff i had it given me!! i like a challange and as my dad used to drive it when it was new i thought i'd do it but i'd never ever restore anything as ruff again!JC wrote:Welcome to the BB, Dexta 4. You have some really nice tractors.
We don't have many David Browns over here in the US, especially not of that vintage. Can you tell us more about it?
sometimes you need 4!!!
Painting
Hi Dexta4,
It sounds like you've had some experience at restoration! I'm getting to the painting stage with my Dexta (see Bensdexta threads).
Please could you outline your technique for painting.
What prep do you do?
What paints do you use? How do you apply it?
Do you assemble the bits then paint or paint the bits then assemble?
Many thanks,
Ben
It sounds like you've had some experience at restoration! I'm getting to the painting stage with my Dexta (see Bensdexta threads).
Please could you outline your technique for painting.
What prep do you do?
What paints do you use? How do you apply it?
Do you assemble the bits then paint or paint the bits then assemble?
Many thanks,
Ben
hi ben,
looking at your tractor id have the main bits shot blasted or if you have a good compressor you could try a needle gun? i use paint from my local new holland dealer, i spray all my stuff, give it about three coats of under coat and 1 top coat when spraying you need a very good light area as its supprising how many nooks and crannys you dont see till you get the tractor outside then you find out you've missed them with the spray gun
on my tin work after each coat of paint i rub them down using fine grade wet and dry sand paper wrapped around a flat sanding block dipping it in a bucket of warm soapy water every now and then (it makes the paper last longer and gives a better finnish) then allow to dry, when spraying just give a light covering with each pass of the gun going just off the edge of the item each time when its all covered leave it 5 mins then go back to see how it looks if it needs more reapply but dont go mad as you'll be very mad if you get a run!!!! when mixing my paint with thinners i have my under coat the consistency of milk and my top coat like water, i paint bits off the tractor then if they need to be taken off to get to problem you may have at a later date you dont crack any paint getting them off, hope this helps. will you be having new tin work or getting the original bits repaired?
looking at your tractor id have the main bits shot blasted or if you have a good compressor you could try a needle gun? i use paint from my local new holland dealer, i spray all my stuff, give it about three coats of under coat and 1 top coat when spraying you need a very good light area as its supprising how many nooks and crannys you dont see till you get the tractor outside then you find out you've missed them with the spray gun
on my tin work after each coat of paint i rub them down using fine grade wet and dry sand paper wrapped around a flat sanding block dipping it in a bucket of warm soapy water every now and then (it makes the paper last longer and gives a better finnish) then allow to dry, when spraying just give a light covering with each pass of the gun going just off the edge of the item each time when its all covered leave it 5 mins then go back to see how it looks if it needs more reapply but dont go mad as you'll be very mad if you get a run!!!! when mixing my paint with thinners i have my under coat the consistency of milk and my top coat like water, i paint bits off the tractor then if they need to be taken off to get to problem you may have at a later date you dont crack any paint getting them off, hope this helps. will you be having new tin work or getting the original bits repaired?sometimes you need 4!!!
Hi,dexta4 wrote:i paint bits off the tractor then if they need to be taken off to get to problem you may have at a later date you dont crack any paint getting them off
Many thanks for the info - very helpful. My engine is now rebuilt so I am planning to paint it before putting it back on the tractor. The engine is not too bad now it's cleaned up, so I am thinking of wire brushing it and painting it before fitting the fuel injection pump and also painting the water pump and thermo housing separately as bits.
I'm also thinking of using Frost's epoxy mastic or POR15 before FNH Q-Coat primer & top coat.
For smaller bits, I am experiments with electrolytic rust removal, following a guide by our Mike Kuscher on the old website. - thanks Mike!
Ref the tin work, I think my original tinwork is beyond repair, so I have got a 2nd-hand bonnet from Ron Greet, a 2nd hand nose cowl off ebay and a pair of new wings. The bonnet, nose cone and fuel tank have been bead blasted /primed by 'Blastcleaner' who posts on here and does an excellent job. I'll get them sprayed by my local bodyshop using Q-coat (no epoxy mastic).
Any comments appreciated,
Ben
-
Meanderer
- True Blue
- Posts: 163
- Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2008 12:46 pm
- Location: Elora Ontario, Canada (transplanted from Crookwell, NSW, Australia)
Ben, my only comment is that I seem to remember that over the years a few have posted negative comments about New Wings they have purchased. In that they don't fit like they should and required modifications and different holes. Majors? Dextas?Bensdexta wrote:...... and a pair of new wings. .................
Any comments appreciated,
Ben
You might need to use the Search facility or someone else might speak from experience.
Cheers,
'
Regards,
Rick
Regards,
Rick
Yes, I've seen comments like this, inc on Stefan's site. However I believe the wings available now are a much better fit and I've had an email from Stefan to this effect so I'm hoping for an easy fitting - I'll let you know!!Meanderer wrote:...I seem to remember that over the years a few have posted negative comments about New Wings they have purchased. In that they don't fit like they should and required modifications and different holes.
All the best,
Ben
ben, i agree with above i have new wings on my super dexta and i've never been 100% happy with them, when its parked next to my other 2 they stand out a mile! but the newer replacements i've seen do seem to look alot better and have the correct length drop to the foot plate, fingers crossed you'll be ok .
sometimes you need 4!!!
Priming after wire brushing
I'd appreciate advice on the following:dexta4 wrote: looking at your tractor id have the main bits shot blasted or if you have a good compressor you could try a needle gun?
Blasting my engine is not an option now as it's built up. So I'm planning to wire brush and de-grease it (as Stefan did with his). However this means that inevitably there will be some rust remaining.
I've read that zinc primer for example works best on clean shot-blasted metal (to SA2.5) and that if this is not possible after wire brushing one may be better off using rust converter followed by an epoxy sealer eg POR15, followed but the correct primer and top coat, eg FNH Q-Coat which I plan to use.
Any advice on what paint/primer to apply after wire brushing and de-greasing appreciated.
Many thanks,
Ben