3pt hitch wont drop

[the3880]

Bought a major a while back and have two issues I was hoping to resolve. First the 3 pt arms wont drop when the pressure is released unless there is a really heavy load on them. They raise normally. Curious what is wrong and what I need to do to resolve it. Second issue is that it doesnt have the mount for the top link of the three point. Ive seen where it is supposed to mount in pictures but my question is is that metal cast iron or cast steel? It apparently matters in terms of which welding rod I need to use to mount one. Thanks in advance!

[SvendH]

When you select "down" the arms must drop by there own weight, there is no "downforce".
Therefor your lift must be staying up due to sticktion in the lift cross-shaft possibly corsed by lack of lube or damage.
In not sure about the top link,i think yours is different to my "super"
Best Rygårds
Svend

[the3880]

Ill have to have a look at that. One other suggestion someone gave me is that there is some sort of valve that relieves the pressure when the arms are supposed to drop and that that valve may be malfunctioning? does that sound right to anyone? I should also note that while I have an average amount of mechanical experience, I have zero experience with tractors.

[SvendH]

With an old fordson in the household you wil lsoon gain experiance
If the valve you mention is failing you should be able to hear the hydroulics and even the engine labour (if the revs are low) until the preasure drops.This would point to a faulty lift valve-I think!
best regards
svend.

[henk]

The toplinkholder can't be made from cast iron. It will brake instandly. It must be cast steel. You can weld one youre self from normal steel.

[the3880]

The toplinkholder can't be made from cast iron. It will brake instandly. It must be cast steel. You can weld one youre self from normal steel.

right so to be more specific what im asking is the metal of the tractor where the link would be welded on made of cast iron or cast steel?

[henk]

That will also be cast steel.
Are you missing the four threathed holes on that spot?

[west oz]

This shows how the top link mount bolts on on my 1954 model. I wouldn't weld it on.

[Old Hywel]

With the linkage down, engine off and everything at rest, can you raise the lift arms manually? Should be possible singl- handedly. This will show whether or not the problem is a tight crossshaft.

[the3880]

So all four of those bolts are sheared off. So my only real option is to weld or attach to some other location. I resolved the failure to drop by attaching a weight and cycling it up and down many times. It likely had sat a while and the oil that would be actuating it was seeming to be pink and pretty not good shape. So welding and an oil change I will go!

[SvendH]

I think it is better to repair the holes and bolt on a new link made of steel

[blackbob]

The bolts should be big enough for you to easily build up with weld, enough to get a self-grip pliers on, or ideally weld on a nut to screw them out? Much better than trying to weld a bracket on to the casting,,

I have successfully done this with the bleed nipple on a car brake caliper which is only 6mm diameter

[henk]

Yes, weld a bolt on them and than coole it of rappedly. Then get a big hamer to give it a big shock before you try to unscrew it. Heat, cold and a big shock is the best in this sort of situations.

[SvendH]

If a bolt is broken off flush with the casting, grind the boltend smooth then mark the exact center with a punch now using a succesion of drills hollow out each bolt until only the thread remains.now use a screwdriver or a spiral extractor to pull out the remains of the bolt and the hole is ready to take a new bolt.
If the thread is badly damaged in the process,repair with a Helicoil and its as good as new

[the3880]

Ill have to do some thinking on it. The bolts are sheared off flush which means that they are likely stuck in there pretty good and so would need a lot of torque applied to get them out. the drilling out of the bolts seems a little more appealing. https://photos.app.goo.gl/W4LYAbtWdT1ZnRhu8 This is what it looks like. The previous owner put a 4 liter gm 6 engine in it and painted it yellow and fabricated the 3 pt boom. Im going to use it to plow an ice skating track on our lake this winter and to work in our vegetable field next summer. We grow purple potatoes arugala chard brussel sprouts and other cool weather crops in Wasilla Alaska. Its in good shape but missing a few pieces like brake cover and bonnet.

[SvendH]

You will need a thread tapping tool the same size as the original bolts,once you have drilled the bolts the tool is great for cleaning out the thread.
Perhaps someone on the board could help with what size the bolts are ?

[oehrick]

Weld a bolt or bit of square bar to the broken end, the weld will not stick badly to the casting and the heat will help release the rust, I'd not fast cool the weld in case it makes it brittle and snaps.

A bolt with 2 or 3 longways grind or file grooves makes a reasonable substitute tap for cleaning out an existing thread.

A welded bracket should make a fair substitute for the missing casting I/m pretty sure that rear housing is cast iron and not steel so would bolt not try welding.

[the3880]

so I got really lucky. what appeared to be sheared off bolts were infact llittle tin plugs that I removed with a drillbit. The threads in the tractor are intact so now i just fab a mount and bolt it on. Was really happy to discover this. Gradually im inching toward a useful tractor! I made a hood for it from plywood and now to fab a brake drum cover for the missing one.

[henk]

Lucky you.
At least you now know a few ways to get the job done when it is serieus.