Trailer hitch query for you welders out there

[Wee59dexta]

At times of stress I always find the help here amazing. I wonder if you experienced welders out there could help me out?

I recently purchased (on impulse) a 6 X 4 car trailer for the garden and the odd skin run behind the car / Dexta.

I liked the cage, new wooden floors and boards etc and overlooked a massive part....
On getting home and on reflection I'm not happy with how the Bradley hitch is attached to the drawbar.
Hopefully the pictures work but however: the Bradley hitch is bolted to a steel plate which is welded to there drawbar. Is this a weakpoint which is potentially dangerous or is it sufficient ? I obviously have no idea what a good or bad weld is? My father said he would add bolts to the join as a "back up". Is this a good idea?
Any advice or suggestions would be very much appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Wee59dexta

[Emiel]

Hi,

Can’t judge it to be honest. But the mounting of the stud wheel looks to be creating a weak spot in the square tube.

You have more pictures may be?

[Jerry Coles]

What thickness is the plate?
Where do the weld beads run? all the way around where the plate contacts the tube?
Does the weld bead look even and consistent?
Are there Nyloc nuts on the mounting bolts?
I would have a bracing fillet welded along the sides of the tube where the Jockey wheel bolts go through as these holes could weaken the tube strength.
Not a welder but I think I can tell a good weld (even run, consistent bead size and shape, apparent penetration to both pieces of the work.) and extra strengthening never hurt.
IMHO
Jerry

[Wee59dexta]

Thanks Jerry and Emiel. There are nyloc bolts securing the d20 hitch to the plate, but I'll get more pics up in the day light. I take both your points regarding the jockey wheel bolts.
I now can assume it's an old braked coupling hitch someone welded on to manufacturing costs when a 2 bolt hitch should have been fitted.

The trailer is 6 X 4, has a wooden floor (marine ply) and wooden sides with mesh crates etc but having purchased and brought home it just seems a bit "soft". I wouldn't fancy carrying much rubble in it.
Tbh I'm really after a steel trailer, one you would be confident hauling sand etc around in to do wee jobs around the house.
It was an impulse buy and being a novice I'm typically wiser after the fact but hey ho. I think I'll sell it and hopefully recoup what I spent and go again.
Pics to follow.

[Jerry Coles]

Don't forget that unbraked trailers can only go up to 750Kg All up weight (weight of trailer PLUS its load).
I would also check on your driving license conditions due to restrictions depending on your age and class. Take a very close look at your driving license.

A useful tip: When you get your trailer, couple it up at the maximum angle you are happy with away from the straight line (the limit to it's kink). Then get in your driving seat, look in your mirrors and get someone to make a vertical line where you can see the line on the front face of your trailer before it's hidden by your rear wing. Paint this line quite thick in black paint. Then whenever your reversing and your looking in your mirrors, when that line starts to disappear you know you have reached the limit of kinking the trailer. Saves bent wing and trailer!!
IMHO
Jerry

[Wee59dexta]

Hi Jerry, some more pictures I took this morning:



Thanks for the great tip and I do have a trailer licence having owned a caravan in the past.

Thanks again

[Jerry Coles]

I personally would remove the hitch (it looks to be an old type) and cut off the plate and get a new hitch that bolts through the drawbar.
IMHO
Jerry

[mathias1]

The trailer is not that big, you won't put big loads on it IMO.
I guess it will be fine, or you can go the way Jerry suggests.