Engine oil leak

[JMD168]

Fordson Super Major 1961, after the engine has been run for a short time then turned off oil leaks from under the timing chain cover, after a few days the oil drips stop, I suspect a failed gasket or crank shaft seal. To get at the problem I think will require bonnet off front cowl off and radiator removed, some one has had the crank shaft nut off before as I can see pipe wrench marks on the nut, first question, is the nut left or right thread? to loosen it is the method, engage 1st gear with hand brake on then attempt to loosen with pipe wrench?
After removing the nut I will need a pulley extractor to remove the drive pulley, can I buy or hire such a device? I think it may take a lot of getting off. With the pulley off I can remove the timing chain cover, is the crank shaft seal pressed into the cover? Any answers or suggestions would be much appreciated.

[mathias1]

Hi,

the nut is right thread. If you have the correct size of the spanner, you can do it without a pipe wrench.
If you want to renew the seal on the crankshaft, you will also have to remove the timing cover. With the cover of, you can take out the seal. You will have to check the condition of the pulley shaft, as these are mostly the cause of the leak.
A classic 2 or 3 leg puller will do the job. It might come off without a puller.

[henk]

According to Brian, the best way to do this work is to support the engine well and lock the rear wheels with the handbrake. This is importent for your safety. Remove the hood. Loosen the steering rod. Disconnect the lighting wiring. Drain the radiator and disconnect hoses. Loosen the U beams at the engine. Disconnect the triangle and drive away the front axle including radiator and nose.
Now you have free access to the front of the engine.
Seems like a lot of work, but I know from experience that this is the best way.
It is very convenient to cut the wiring in the nose and provide it with a plug connection.

[Billy26F5]

Does this happen every time you start the engine? If so the timing cover will need removing. The removal as specified will be fine, but be careful with the pulley as it's very tight, it will very probably need sorting as the seal will have worn a grove in the pulley hub. Having said that if it's only a tiny dribble that doesn't affect the oil level significantly I would be incline to live with it cleaning it all the time. If it does pour out you will need to sort it as soon as you can as it also means dirt is getting in. The wiring is likely to have connectors for the lights (if you have lights, otherwise there's nothing electrical to fiddle with to access the front of the engine). The bolt that holds the pulley on is also where the starting handle engages when there is one.
Sandy

[Old Hywel]

Henk’s comprehensive instructions omit one important detail;
Place a suitable support under the engine before removing front axle.

[JMD168]

Hello,
Thanks for the replies I will have a go at curing the oil leak when the weather warms up a little, no heating in my garage. I'm not in favour of removing the front axle though, there is a lot of weight there for a chap of my years and besides I don't have room to wheel out the front axle. After running the engine for only a few minutes about 2 - 3 desert spoons of oil will drip out during the next 24 hrs. then after that an occasional drip every few days, what I can't check of course is how much oil drips when the tractor is being driven, what little use I have had due to the virus problem hasn't lowered the oil level according to the dip stick so the leak can only be minor but it is annoying.

[mathias1]

JM,

Will you make some pictures during the job and post them here?

[JMD168]

Hello Mathias1,
Yes I will take some photographs showing my progress, hope all goes well, thanks
John

[Billy26F5]

That is on the limit of whether the leak is tolerable or not, removing the front axle and channels is not that heavy, you will need to support the rear very well though to avoid a collapse. If you're not using him much I wouldn't worry too much, but if you're going to be using him more then now is the time to sort the leak, can you confirm if the leak is from the seal or the gasket (wet or dry timing cover)?
Sandy

[JMD168]

It's now time to tackle the oil leak, I removed the sheet metal work and radiator, got my 24" pipe wrench on the crank shaft nut/bolt with top gear engaged and brakes full on, couldn't shift it, added a 24" length of pipe to the end of the pipe wrench and applied my 13 stone this time it did move but realised the clutch was slipping ! put the blow torch on it for a few minutes then it came loose.

Removed the pulley with the hub puller which came off quite easily

I then removed the bolts from the timing cover and noted some are UNF and some are UNC, counted them up and found there was one more hole than bolts, one must be missing. Not so simple the last person to work on this sheared off the bottom bolt, that won't help the oil leak. Using my angle drive and a 6.5mm drill I managed to drill it out. Awkward to get to, had to use a pry bar to force the drill forwards.

Tapped it M8 (no UNC or UNF taps). As you can see (hope fully) there is a fine groove around the pulley worn by the oil seal, the new seal is fitted with a gaiter spring so I think it should make a good seal.

I'm going to apply some none setting gasket paste to the cover as well as a new gasket so all being well there shouldn't be any more oil leaks.
Hope the pictures appear as I've not done this before.

[Old Hywel]

When you fit the new seal, don’t press it fully into the housing. That way the lip should bear on an unworn section.

[Billy26F5]

I'm afraid your pics aren't visible.
Sandy

[Old Hywel]

I'm afraid your pics aren't visible.
Sandy

Ok here.

[mathias1]

Should be ok now. I fixed the image links.

[Daves rusty bits]

Can see the pictures ok Thanks, makes a good reference for anyone taking on the same job in the future. Dave

[Bluebilly]

Before going too deep and renewing the crankshaft seal, is there not meant to be oil lubricating the chain and wheels? There is normally a timing gear oil feed and this oil drains back into the sump. Perhaps this drain is partially blocked and oil is filling the housing and leaking out the cover seal? If oil is leaking out the timing cover surely it is either the timing cover gasket or the shaft seal in the cover.
Just my thoughts...

[Billy26F5]

It's almost certainly the seal with the pulley in that condition, if the gasket fails the bottom of the timing cover will be dry. The oil should go into the sump through the crank opening, but if the seal is gone it will prefer to leak out (remember there's a vacuum inside when running, not much but a wee one, a Mk1 has a much higher vacuum because it has no breather).
Sandy