Not original starter

[123Dexta]

Hi
I just bought my very first and best Dexta. 1961.
I realised that a lot of changes had been made. I plan to restore it as close to the original as possible.
So far, I see a new starter and am missing the control box.
Do I need the control box, or It's not necessary anymore?
And there is no more throttle lever to the starter, I just need to turn the key.
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[Billy26F5]

Hi
I just bought my very first and best Dexta. 1961.
I realised that a lot of changes had been made. I plan to restore it as close to the original as possible.
So far, I see a new starter and am missing the control box.
Do I need the control box, or It's not necessary anymore?
And there is no more throttle lever to the starter, I just need to turn the key.

Couldn't see your pic, you only need to copy the link, no need to add the image code as the link already has that in it. That looks very different from std, to the point of being a bit concerned about it fitting at all. You need to replace the alternator and starter with original items, being all Lucas, a M45G 26143N starter, a C39P2 22259D dynamo and a RB108 37396 regulator. Modern alternators use an internal regulator, but it's still required. You'll also need to find a starter lever and rod plus pins (1/4" OD 25/32" long) lever fixing bolt and split pins (1/16" OD 3/4" long). Can't see enough to say more. You might well find you still have the regulator in its location, in the dash. More pics will help on a more general basis on various details.
Sandy

[123Dexta]

Thank you Sandy.
More pictures will be provided later.

[123Dexta]

Sandy, it's a very complicated operation to attach the photo. Can you show, please, what the image link looks like?
I am trying to click the image icon on top of the text box, then I insert the link in between the square brackets.
But nothing is working.

My example: [/img]

[Billy26F5]

Not sure you've seen this but check it anyway: https://www.fordsontractorpages.nl/phpb ... 955#p53955 You don't need to use the image icon with this, it works by itself.
Looks like the bracket for the starter lever is broken, so even more difficult but still possible to fix, either weld it up or fit a second hand part that is better.
Sandy

[Old Hywel]

Why bother? The starter shown appears to be a geared model, giving much improved cranking speeds, and easier starting.
You’re missing bits anyway, and original isn’t always better.

[Hair Bear]

As a caution, your Dexta is now likely to be 'negative earth'. No biggie, just something to be aware of.
It's a question of reliability or aesthetics.
What I'm seeing are reliability type upgrades. The p3 was always a good starting engine so I would suspect when the time expired original needed replacing, a geared starter wasn't much more expense and reduces stress on other 60+ year old components. If it were mine I'd consider leaving it alone but fit a dummy lever to the dash just to look right.
I'd keep the alternator without a second thought. An alternator system doesn't need a control box. The charge rate is probably a 50% or more increase compared to a dynamo, again a reliability upgrade. But, the visual difference between alternator and dynamo is quite obvious. On the showfield, a rivet counter with a pocketfull of jam sandwiches and zero understanding of A-V-O will joyfully point out to anyone bored enought to listen that the alternator is wrong.
Most of all, remember it is your tractor, no one elses, get out there and enjoy it.
My opinion, like others, are just opinions!

[Billy26F5]

I'm not a fan of these things, I find the original parts quite capable of doing their job, and Dexta's are never great starters anyway. Using the primer and heater correctly will help a lot. The alternator will incorporate a regulator in it so it needs one too, but it's different from the std one that is in the dash. I doubt many people who make such changes will bother to remove the original regulator, and its location in the dash makes it easy to overlook. Original is original, but it's up to you to decide what you do with yours. I always recommend original but that's just me, it will make everything easier though, as you have all information in manuals as specified. When changes are made it can make this very confusing, and I can say that if you then have an issue with the electrics it can drive you round the bend trying to find what wires do what. Getting spares can be tricky too, to the point of impossible for certain modified parts; original parts can be tricky too but at least it's not too hard to find the part numbers for them and then you have an idea of what to look for.
Sandy

[123Dexta]

Thanks to everyone for the accurate and helpful advice. I think I’ll stick with the new starter, and thanks for the tip about the dummy lever rod)))

There’s no control box on the panel, and Sandy was right – you can always find the old wiring diagrams, but it isn’t easy to figure out how the new wiring has been done.

Yes, the negative is currently connected to earth, like in regular cars.

Unfortunately, there are still a few quirks. I don’t quite understand how the stop button is wired. The previous owner converted it into a pedal. As long as you keep the pedal pressed, the engine runs – release it, and the engine shuts off.

[Billy26F5]

That's not a good arrangement. I would return to a std stop cable, then it'll be easier. Quite keen to see pics of this odd thing, I can only presume it was a deterrent of sorts or something along those lines. Can't show you a pic as I don't have a suitable one for a pneumatic governor (if you have a minimec I can, but that didn't come in till engine 1530251).
Sandy

[Hair Bear]

Yes, more pics please!
Do I see a loader frame? Which pedal do you need to keep pressed to keep it running?