I am trying to get the weels of the 4 wd major but the nuts are to thigt on the bolts, an yes warm cold air tools nothing works, an I have boken one bold already so I must take a power tool, but than I must replace the bolds in the hub and I dont know how I get the hub off
In the middle of the wheel is a bearing or a special nut (not the front axle) what is it and how it gets off ??
please help
What I also want to know the weight of one front wheel with the weight 24x11,2
regards Frans
who's afraid off blue orange and grey
1960 Power Major Roadless 6 cyl conversion
1964 NP Super Major
Sorry, I can't help you with your other questions, but I've had great luck breaking rusted nuts free by heating them up to red hot and then quenching them as quickly as possible with a stream of cold water. Sometimes I have to do this a second time, but it almost always loosens up the nut.
You might have som help of this. http://www.fordson.se/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=3159
You don´t have to remove the hub because of the bolts, you just hammer them out to the backside of the flange. I just did it on a spare hub and they come out real easy. The tin cover is in the way a bit but it is not a problem.
You only get access to the wheelbearings if you open the bearingnut. You can adjust the tihtness of the bearings with the nut.
This is built much like an older 4WD Pick up front end. The nuts on the axle look like the ones on a common 4 WD and the proper socket wrench can be obtained at an auto parts store. It will have 6 squares sticking out of the end that will fit the nuts. There are two nuts and a washer between. The first nut sometimes is locked by a piece of sheet metal that will have to be bent back. The outer nut should thread out counter clockwise. the washer will have to be removed as it has a notch that fits in a keyway and a pin that keeps the inner nut from moving. Then the inner nut should be able to thread off easily and the hub should come off with the bearings with a little help from a hammer. If the wrench is not availible, I have used a hammer and punch to spin the nuts off in a pinch, but I don't like to as it beats the edges up on the nuts. keep us posted of progress. Dandy Dave!
One other thing, The axle should have a snap ring that holds it in place just inside of the axle tube. that will also need to be removed before it will come apart. Dandy Dave!
Be there a man with soul so dead that at least one time in his life has said, "Son of a B----, that's a left handed thread"! If that is not the answer, Dave Matt's method of heating cherry red works very well. Good Luck!
Well I ve got the wheels of on with the hub, the treads are the same anti clocwise to lose, I've tryed to heat them up already and than cooled the bolt also but nope. I will try this week on my work more and heavyer equipment, and a mecanic with some "golden fingers"
and off they go
they are still heavy need some front wheights on the SM
The bolds are simple to remove from the hub so I think I buy some new ones for that
regards Frans
who's afraid off blue orange and grey
1960 Power Major Roadless 6 cyl conversion
1964 NP Super Major
When I painted my frontwheels I tryed to remove them but when they don´t came off with normal methods I let them be. At least they don´t fall off when driving on the road. I have spare bolts so I can cut them off if they are stubborn when time comes.
I'm sure you're ahead of me on this but whenever I put something back together that was miserable to get apart, I use a never-seize compound on the parts because the next poor guy who has to take it apart might be me!
There was much paint on the nuts and bolds and the previous owner(s) had make the same mistake so there wher 3 left and 3 right treats on it, there is still one on but I get it off.
I think I make it a full right treat wheel...
and Kim you're right it will be you.... or me if its mine
regards Frans
who's afraid off blue orange and grey
1960 Power Major Roadless 6 cyl conversion
1964 NP Super Major
The treads are different on each side for the reason that the wheel should not fall off by it self. They tigth them selves when driving forward. If You put right hand tread on the wrong side it will fall off by it self some day. I don´t remember on witch side the right hand tread should be, but you can look at the rear wheels how they are.
The treads are different on each side for the reason that the wheel should not fall off by it self. They tigth them selves when driving forward. If You put right hand tread on the wrong side it will fall off by it self some day. I don´t remember on witch side the right hand tread should be, but you can look at the rear wheels how they are.
I can follow your or there reason for it
but why only the front axel an not on the back, and on the Super its all the same ?
even on my car (yes also Ford) they are all the same.
regards Frans
who's afraid off blue orange and grey
1960 Power Major Roadless 6 cyl conversion
1964 NP Super Major
Just some additional information on left and right hand threads.
The nut on the big gear of the rear axle shaft is in Major tractors right hand thread. In early E27N the left hand side had left hand thread.
This means that identical shafts had to be made for left and right, but with another thread to be cut on for left and right hand ones. Also two different types of nuts had to be made. This means a lot of production costs compared to make just one type.
Ford thougt that self loosening of the nuts would be very unlikely and stopped making the left hand thread units. There are easier ways of preventing a nut working loose. This step saved production costs, stocking costs and made things a little easier in the parts supply for the equipment in the field. Ford proved to be right, because I think no one of us ever heard of nuts inside the tractor working loose.
For this reason you will rarely find left hand threads for the working loose reasons these days.
Dave Matt wrote:I've had great luck breaking rusted nuts free by heating them up to red hot and then quenching them as quickly as possible with a stream of cold water. Sometimes I have to do this a second time, but it almost always loosens up the nut.
This is what my local agricultural engineer does. It certainly works.
But what does it do to the metal?
Heating up cherry red 'anneals' steel, ie makes it soft and relieves any locked-in stresses. IIRC quenching makes it hard again but hopefully not too brittle? Can a metallurgist amongst us please clarify?
Ben
Last edited by Bensdexta on Thu Jun 04, 2009 7:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Brian wrote:Because the front axle design came from an army truck originally?
The same thing occurred on trailer wheels and ex-military trucks and things that used surplus parts in the late 1940's and 50's.
I assume that these axles have the "Dog Bone" Nuckles, that were used in military applications, rather than universal joints in the front axle at the steering points? Dandy Dave!
Brian wrote:Because the front axle design came from an army truck originally?
The same thing occurred on trailer wheels and ex-military trucks and things that used surplus parts in the late 1940's and 50's.
I assume that these axles have the "Dog Bone" Nuckles, that were used in military applications, rather than universal joints in the front axle at the steering points? Dandy Dave!
Heating to 'Cherry Red' then allowing to cool slowly is what anneals metal.
The 'heating to cherry red' part makes it possible for molecular changes to take place.
It is the cooling, after that, that decides on the moleclar structure (hardness, softness etc.)
The main molecular changes, for iron/steel, are between ferrite, austenite and cementite (different molecular states the molecules can be 'frozen' at).
Cooling too quickly can cause cracking, which will eventually result in fracture.
Then, the only cure is the 'fourth molecular state' loctite
Mike Kuscher wrote:Heating to 'Cherry Red' then allowing to cool slowly is what anneals metal.
The 'heating to cherry red' part makes it possible for molecular changes to take place.
It is the cooling, after that, that decides on the moleclar structure (hardness, softness etc.)
The main molecular changes, for iron/steel, are between ferrite, austenite and cementite (different molecular states the molecules can be 'frozen' at).
Cooling too quickly can cause cracking, which will eventually result in fracture.
Mike,
Many thanks for the explanation - takes me back to Uni and those 'phase diagrams'! Am I right in thinking that high tensile steels, such as might be used for important bolts, is less forgiving than mild steel as regards cracking?
Is there any guidance on cooling rate as to how quickly is too quickly?
Also I think cast iron is brittle and more susceptable to cracking due to thermal stresses?
I guess that if one is concerned about cracking due to thermal stresses, we can just let the part cool naturally without quenching.
Thanks again,
Ben
Dandy Dave!
Dandy Dave!
On my Roadless Super Major the back have different treads and I took for granted that all have.