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Author
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Topic: Super Dexta Rebuild
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naildriver7
True Blue Posts: 8
From: monroe
Registered: Jun 2007
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posted June 23, 2007 03:32
   
New Poster here. My first rebuild/ restoration project is underway despite what every tractorman said. What's up with that? My father gave me this tractor so I intend to see this project through. I have learned alot and been completely impressed with all the great information on this and other related sites. I'm still in awe over this whole world wide web thing... Are any of you fellow dexta owners near me..? Does anyone know of a tractor junkyard(parts museum) in the Charlotte NC (US) area? I was impressed with a couple of the out of country parts suppliers (Agriline, Vapormatic found in a tractor magazine) Are there any similar US companies or should I import? Has anyone compared pricing this way? Any help will be greatly appreciated from me "a dying breed" (someone who will try to tackle something that he knows nothing about)[This message has been edited by naildriver7 (edited June 23, 2007).] IP: Logged |
commander
True Blue Posts: 38
From: south carolina,usa
Registered: Mar 2007
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posted June 24, 2007 06:24
Hi naildriver7 and welcome to the board. I live about 40 miles away from Monroe, in Sharon SC . To answer a few of your questions: I am not aware of a tractor breaking yard in our immediate area. There is a large auction yard in Charlotte called Godley Auction that I believe still holds a well attended farm equipment auction once a month.It's on hwy 16 on the northwest side of Charlotte, going towards Newton -Conover. You could give them a call, they may be able to point you to someone. (704) 399-9756 is their number.
Also try your nearest Case New Holland dealer. I'm not sure if there is one in Monroe. There is a large one in charlotte, just off 1-85 at Graham street. I've done a major overhaul/ rebuild on a '59 dexta over the last year and bought parts both domestically and from europe.
I would reccomend buying all you can domestically..it's usually cheaper. Shipping costs from Europe are quite expensive, and the dollar / euro rates aren't favorable right now to those of us on this side of the pond. Plus, returns are much easier if you happen to have a problem. There are many in the US advertising various parts for Dexta's on the internet. Two that I've done business with , and have no complaints about, are Yesterday's Tractors, http://www.ytmag.com/store/index.htm
and Walt's . http://www.waltstractors.com/acatalog/ If you haven't done so already, get yourself a parts listing and a service manual, there are links to free softcopies on this site.
Also, look at the data available on this site on serial numbers and casting codes and determine the year of your tractor. this can be important when looking for certain parts.
One more bit of advice, if you do any engine work, take it to a shop that will pressure test the cylinder head, and examine the block thoroughly for cracks, holes , etc. These tractors are getting to be 45 -50 years old, an corrosion induced cracks are fairly common in them. (search this forum, you will turn up quite a bit on the subject). Good luck with your project.
IP: Logged |
naildriver7
True Blue Posts: 8
From: monroe
Registered: Jun 2007
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posted June 24, 2007 23:01
Thanks for the reply Commander. So that's what you call it(tractor breaker yard) My Super Dexta is a 64 model and has the restricter adjusting knob on the hydraulics. I'm well underway in my exploratory teardown. My engine teardown revealed a spun bearing. No visable damage to the block yet most machinist say (without seeing it) that it will probably need line boring. I've not taken my engine to a machine shop yet because first, I want to check out the rest of the tractor to make sure there are no major problems. Second, I'm asking alot of questions to be sure I choose the most qualified machine shop. I have now found a couple of parts dexta's and someone to rebuild my injector pump for four hundred to six hundred dollars. Question: I have not yet separated the transmission, rear end and axle housing but everything else is on the floor. When I turn the clutch side brake shoe(by hand) everthing turned smoothly. When I turn the locking differential side break shoe there is a tight spot in it's revolution. Any predictions about what I'm going to find in there? After pulling the hydraulic cover/pump it looks like whoever owned the tractor before me used four parts oil to one part swamp mud in his maintence regimen.IP: Logged |
commander
True Blue Posts: 38
From: south carolina,usa
Registered: Mar 2007
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posted June 25, 2007 04:29
Salvage yard may be the more common name in this corner of the globe, or even just 'junkyard'..though people usually mean auto salvage with that one. $400 -600 sounds about right for the pump rebuild, based on what I've seen on the internet. A little confused about your question .."turning the brake shoe" ...do you mean the brake drum ? ... the drum could be dragging on the shoe ..try removing it and then turning the axle..
my first check on roughness in the rear axle,
not related to brakes, would be the outer bearing. They were designed to be packed with grease, which dries out over time .This maintenance detail may have been ignored over the years.
I'm not personnaly familar with the differential lock, so I won't hazard any further guess. Finding 'swamp mud' in the cases seems to be common. Few people changed the fluids as often as they should, fewer still bothered to flush the cases with solvent when they did change the oil. I did not dive into the transmission or differential on mine....it all worked quitely and smoothly and I decided to risk just letting it go. I did pull the rear axles,
repack the bearings and drain and flush everything. Mine had a lot of crud in the in the cases too....and about 2 inches of sludge in the oil pan..... the spun bearing on he crank may mean a new crank is in order. I'd be sure to have the shop look at it. you might find someone that can reweld (and then regrind) a badly damaged one, but that seems to be a dying art.
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Brian
Rules All Things Blue Posts: 2824
From: United Kingdom
Registered: Feb 2002
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posted June 25, 2007 08:23
Just a couple of points chaps.
The spinning of a bearing does not automatically mean the block has to be line bored. It would have to show a lot of damage for that to be required. It may be best to get it miked up and checked though. Bearings with an O/S outside diameter will be hard to get hold of.The crank will most certainly have to be re-ground. Metal spraying and re-grinding has gone out of favor over here but new cranks are available. Brake binding is probably only due to need for centralising and the freeing off of the brake actuators. Watch out for the little nylon bushes on the shaft that enters the brake drum. These wear out and can give that problem. There is no need to pack the axle bearings with grease. They were never meant to be greased. They are lubricated by axle oil. If you doubt this because you don't think the oil will get down there, wait till the seals in the hubs go and watch it leak into the brakes!  . The axle and gearbox is virtually indestructible. The only area that you should check is the gear lever bottom for wear and the seals in the hydraulic lift. The Position control pin will need careful examination too. (See post by Jos which includes picture and size details). ------------------
Kind regards
Brian IP: Logged |
Jos Cuypers
True Blue Posts: 410
From: Tongeren - Belgium
Registered: Sep 2002
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posted June 25, 2007 09:45
There you can find it :
http://www.fordsontractorpages.nl/ubb/Forum5/HTML/001211.html quote:
Originally posted by Brian:
Just a couple of points chaps.
... The Position control pin will need careful examination too. (See post by Jos which includes picture and size details).
IP: Logged |
naildriver7
True Blue Posts: 8
From: monroe
Registered: Jun 2007
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posted June 28, 2007 02:14
What likely happened here? Is this common or a rare incident? Is this something that could cause problems later? Should I replace it or go with this one? I've located an axle housing. What is a reasonable price? The picture reveals that the parts tractor does have the required locking differential. Does it have to be a Super? My tractor is a 1964 Super Dexta.
 [This message has been edited by naildriver7 (edited June 28, 2007).] IP: Logged |
Tubal Cain
True Blue Posts: 126
From: Pembrokeshire, West Wales, UK
Registered: Sep 2006
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posted June 28, 2007 11:04
Brian,Are you getting your tractors mixed up when you state? Quote:"There is no need to pack the axle bearings with grease. They were never meant to be greased. They are lubricated by axle oil. If you doubt this because you don't think the oil will get down there, wait till the seals in the hubs go and watch it leak into the brakes!". The Dexta workshop manual cleary states that the bearing housings should be packed with grease! Also the inner shaft seal if fitted correctly and under normal conditions will prevent oil from reaching the outer bearing! Regards. Gerald. IP: Logged |
MarkB
True Blue Posts: 111
From: Louisa, Ky. USA
Registered: Aug 2006
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posted June 28, 2007 17:57
Tubal,
I've found while restoring my Dexta's axle seals, because of 48 years of wear most axles will have a "ring grove" where the seal rides on the axle. If this is not fixed then the oil "will" leak out onto the brakes. I fought this before I restored my Dexta by constantly putting in new oil seals. I found out the hard way that I needed to fix the ring grove on my axle first, then renew "both" seals. If you don't fix this little grove then you are throwing your money away.
There are two ways that I know of to fix the problem.
1. You can find a "good" machine shop to weld the grove up and machine it back to the proper specifications.
2. They make a thin stainless steel shield that you can slip on over the ring grove, (go to Stefan Riegel's site and see how he did this on his pto shaft), www.fordson-dexta.de).
I know of one who put JB weld on his and then sanded it back down flat to the axle, but that lasted only a short time then she started leaking again, and that was "me" I took the advice of a friend but it didn't work, you have to do either one of the ways I've told you about.
The manual does state that the bearing should be packed in grease, but I think the reason for this is, a new axle bearing should be packed grease so to be sure of lubrication until the gear oil gets to all the right places. The gear oil will then clean the grease off in time, making the gear oil the permanent lubrication of the axle bearings. Be assured if you don't fix the ring grove your axles will leak oil onto the brakes no matter what you do. quote:
Originally posted by Tubal Cain:
The Dexta workshop manual cleary states that the bearing housings should be packed with grease! Also the inner shaft seal if fitted correctly and under normal conditions will prevent oil from reaching the outer bearing! Regards. Gerald.
[This message has been edited by MarkB (edited June 28, 2007).] IP: Logged |
MarkB
True Blue Posts: 111
From: Louisa, Ky. USA
Registered: Aug 2006
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posted June 28, 2007 17:58
Tubal,
I've found while restoring my Dexta's axle seals, because of 48 years of wear most axles will have a "ring grove" where the seal rides on the axle. If this is not fixed then the oil "will" leak out onto the brakes. I fought this before I restored my Dexta by constantly putting in new oil seals. I found out the hard way that I needed to fix the ring grove on my axle first, then renew "both" seals. If you don't fix this little grove then you are throwing your money away.
There are two ways that I know of to fix the problem.
1. You can find a "good" machine shop to weld the grove up and machine it back to the proper specifications.
2. They make a thin stainless steel shield that you can slip on over the ring grove, (go to Stefan Riegel's site and see how he did this on his pto shaft), www.fordson-dexta.de).
I know of one who put JB weld on his and then sanded it back down flat to the axle, but that lasted only a short time then she started leaking again, and that was "me" I took the advice of a friend but it didn't work, you have to do either one of the ways I've told you about.
The manual does state that the bearing should be packed in grease, but I think the reason for this is, a new axle bearing should be packed in grease so to be sure of lubrication until the gear oil gets to all the right places. The gear oil will then clean the grease off in time, making the gear oil the permanent lubrication of the axle bearings. Be assured if you don't fix the ring grove your axles will leak oil onto the brakes no matter what you do.
Hope this helps.
Mark [/b][/QUOTE] [This message has been edited by MarkB (edited June 28, 2007).] [This message has been edited by MarkB (edited June 28, 2007).] IP: Logged |
MarkB
True Blue Posts: 111
From: Louisa, Ky. USA
Registered: Aug 2006
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posted June 28, 2007 18:05
Sorry gents I've double posted some how, Oscar please delete my second post and this one as well.
Thanks
Mark[This message has been edited by MarkB (edited June 28, 2007).] [This message has been edited by MarkB (edited June 28, 2007).] IP: Logged |
naildriver7
True Blue Posts: 8
From: monroe
Registered: Jun 2007
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posted June 28, 2007 22:22
Thanks to all responders. My biggest concern at this point is the brazing weld repair on the axle housing. I need the opinion of several experenced tractor men so I can decide whether to swap my axle housing for a junk yard axle housing since I plan on putting this project back together from the rear end first. Any educated guesses as to what happened? You guys were right about the drums dragging the shoe.IP: Logged |
Brian
Rules All Things Blue Posts: 2824
From: United Kingdom
Registered: Feb 2002
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posted June 29, 2007 08:57
Gerald,I should learn to choose my words more carefully. You are right about the inner seal. The main seal however is the outer one. The inner one always tends to leak a little letting oil into the bearings. Later '000nd series tractors only had the outer seal. What I was trying to say was there is no need to strip the axle down to grease the outer bearing. Some grease in initial assembly and the oil that leaks through is enough for the lifetime of the bearing. When the seals fail or a new bearing is required then it can be greased. This is what the service manual is saying. Fords found that too much grease can be a bad thing. Majors have grease nipples on the axle for the equivilant bearing and more problems were caused by over grease than by no grease at all. ------------------
Kind regards
Brian IP: Logged |
MarkB
True Blue Posts: 111
From: Louisa, Ky. USA
Registered: Aug 2006
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posted June 29, 2007 18:14
Naildriver7
I had this problem on my Dexta that your picture is showing, only mine wasn't fixed with brazing. I welded mine and then ground it all back down, re-drilled the hole and tapped it back to size. If you do this right it will last a long time. Mine's been done for years and it's still holding.
Are you going to put a lower bracket on your tractor for pulling something like a hay rake? I have a lower bracket on mine just for that reason, if your not going to put one on yours, then I would just grind it all down real pretty and paint it.
Hope this helps
MarkIP: Logged |
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