Super Major ID and Questions

[gloved1]

Hi all hope this works as my first attempt to post pics and at this stage it just looks like a big sentence?. Anyhow I recently purchased what I suspect from Grill badge is a Fordson Super Major. I was told it has hydraulic issues when I bought it and this is my first quest for possible solutions to the trouble.

I was originally told that it was only the aux bucket that would not function, but since buying it I suspect there may be issues with the rear arms also?. When the selector switch is in and I go to position control as opposed to Qualitrol when I bring the quadrant lever up the rear arms raise and seem to hold. But they will not lower when the quadrant lever is placed in the lower position (does it need weight to lower?)

And as for the aux controls, well when I pull the switch out and select aux and I ensure that the PTO is engaged I cannot seem to get any pressure at all up to the Bucket controls. I did read that I needed the Quad Control lever in a neutral position and have experimented with this and also in and out of qualitrol but still it seems I cannot get pressure to the Aux levers.

Am I wrong in assuming that if I can raise the rear arms then the pump should be ok?, I was hoping it was a configuration/setup problem. I have also played with the Speed Control Adluster (located under the rear/aux selector switch). Have done some reading and read that the unloading valve is a common gremlin, but could not find a post with similar setup to mine?



Am hoping that the ID Plate will help in determining what model I do in fact own. In case my upload pictures do not work the following numbers are what is on the I.D Plate.

Serial Prefix 3R.4,64
Serial Number 11031
Model 94142

Thanks in advance for any replies and offers of advice. I do not work close to home so at times I will not be able to access the Tractor or even the internet but will check in when I can and reply as I progress.

Thanks

[super6954]

Hi
Welcome to the world of Fordson major tractors . I wonder if that diverter valve you have there is causing your problems with oil flow, have never seen one like that on a super major.
It is either correct for an Austrailian tractor, maybe fitted by ford in your country as original equipment, or is maybe from a later 1000 series ford fitted by an old owner . Brian our fordson Guru has always said later 1000 hyd valve parts don't work on older tractors. Hopefully someone else can add a bit more about what this valve is for you, and if it is causing the problem .
Regards Robert

[gloved1]

Ok I just got back from spending a few hours fault finding the hydraulics on the Tractor above. What I found was as follows,

Rear Arms
: Selector Switch in, and Qualitrol Off (lever down) they would function although not at any great speed
: Qualitrol selected no function

Front End Loader
: Selector Switch out, and Qualitrol Off (lever down) by working the quadrant control lever I was able to find a spot that transferred pressure to the front Bucket/loader controls. What I found was that I seemed to lack pressure as I had enough to crowd the bucket but not enough to lift the arms at the front.
: Qualitrol on no function
: I did notice that the only position of the quadrant lever that would allow flow to aux controls was almost fully raised?.I was thinking it would have had to been in a neautral position?.

Suspecting maybe a lack of pressure I placed the rear arms under a 150-200kg car chassis and it would only slightly raise the car before stopping. This tended to support my lack of pressure theory.
I am hoping that it may be a case of the unloading valve bypassing, have been told that pump was looked at already be previous owner and was found to be fine(wont rule it out completely yet). The only literature I can find does not relate to the setup on my tractor as per picture above.
Can anyone supply any information given the facts above as to possible causes, and inform me as to where the unloading valve is located on my model. Also is there a pressure setup/adjustment at all.
I have tried the flow control knob adjusted both ways to full without any difference. I guess this also could be a possible cause?.

Tks

[Brian]

Think you need an instruction book and manual ASAP.



You also have a few issues. The Auxiliary Service chest you have is not for that tractor, it is for a Ford 3000/Ford 4000 and will have different porting.



The Qualitrol lever selects Draft Control for implements working in the soil and for tipping trailers and using loaders. In the down position you are in Position Control where the position of the main control lever relates to the position of the lift arms. Lever half way up the quadrant, lift arms raise to half way.

You do not have a flow control, that is part of the correct Auxiliary Service Chest, what you do have is a New Performance Super Major which has a Drop Control which slows the drop rate of the hydraulic arms.

In Qualitrol the main quadrant lever needs to be within 1/2" of the top stop before the lift will raise. If the lift arms are fully up, then you will need to go beyond the top stop on the quadrant before you will get any flow. The lift has a "knock off" pin built in to stop the lift working when the arms get to the top of their travel. Try dropping the arms about 1/2" and see if the auxiliary services work then. I doubt they will until you have the correct valve chest.

The unload valve will possibly not be your problem as, if that give a problem the lift will stick up and not move. However, the oil flow to that valve comes via the Auxiliary Service Chest and you do not have the correct one for the tractor.

You also need to get a hydraulic pressure gauge and test the hydraulic pressure. That will tell you the condition of the pump rather than relying on the previous owner. If there is about 0.020" wear in the pump housing then the pump is toast. You would have to fully understand the workings of the pump to realise this.

Your first job is to get the Auxiliary Service Chest sorted out before you can really diagnose any other problems in the lift. A "worst case scenario" is that the final drives of the tractor are breaking up and the metal particles have destroyed the pump and ram cylinder. You could start by taking the lift off and checking it all out but, in the end, you will still need the Auxiliary Service Chest.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but "been there" "done that" "eaten the pie" many times in the course of my career.

Your Serial Number is stamped under No.1 Injector and all cast parts have a date/year coding. Yours should start 08C or 08D for the serial number and (say) 3A24 or 4A24 for the year/month/date on the casting codes.

[gloved1]

Brian thanks for the feedback. The original Workshop Manual I was using on showed hydraulic setup for older style Majors. I have since found another Ford Shop Manual and going by the picture above I thought I had found my Aux Service Chest, hence my comment re flow control etc. I definitely have a Pressure problem. As mentioned in previous post I get fluid flow to everywhere I would expect it when selecting the Rear Arms or Aux position, but it is not great enough to perform the tasks asked of it under load. It will raise and lower the Rear Arms and it will crowd the bucket but not enough power to lift the loader arms or as mentioned approx 200kg of weight on rear arms.

As you suggest I really think I need to test the performance of the pump to determine where the low pressure is originating from. If it is from the pump then I may need to determine if it is cost viable to source new pump and Aux valve chest, or cut my losses and sell the Tractor to someone for launching boats into the ocean and commence looking elsewhere for another Tractor. I will persist though and provide detail of what I find.

[Brian]

It does indeed sound as if you have a pump problem. That could be difficult as the pumps have not been available at a reasonable cost for some years. It could be something like blown "O" rings in the pump so that might be worth looking at. You have to go in through the lift cover so you can check everything on the way down to the pump. Not a bad job if you have a strong back or a small crane.

Until you look you will not know if anyone else has been in there but there are "O" rings on the pressure pipe that can get cut as you drop the lift cover back.

The book you are looking at is showing the early Super Major lift. Not too much difference until you come to the settings. When you get to that part we can talk you through it.

Any chance of "borrowing" an ASC valve and trying it before you get too far? I could bring you my spare if you can wait until October.

[gloved1]

Brian, I have made many phone calls today and think I have identified someone who is reportedly a bit of a guru with Fordson Tractors and actually owned and still owns a dealership that used to sell them. Since my Tractor is originally from down that way he may even know the history of it and may have even sold it?. Anyway cannot contact him until next week.

I have also contacted some spare suppliers looking for possible pump and ASC. Awaiting feedback. I also found a guy who has an identical tractor as mine even the front end loader assembly and have sent him a picture to get some feedback from him on his setup.

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/streaky- ... 1041128439

Anyhow upwards and onwards

[AdrianNPMajor]

Very nice looking tractor in the ad. If yours is as good as this one, it would be crying shame for it to end up on the beach. With Brian's help your tractor is definitely fixable. Well worth doing IMHO. Hope you can find the ASC. It and the pump do come up on eBay here in the UK. Be careful. The drive gear on the NP Super pump is different from the gear on the earlier Super.
Good luck.
Best
Adrian

[gloved1]

Tanks for the information. That is why I am desperate to I.d my tractor model etc. When people say number stamped near injector 1 on motor is that the flat surface close to radiator. If so I have no number stamped on this area. Will check other areas next time near tractor

[AdrianNPMajor]

As Brian has confirmed you have a New Super Major. The serial number should be etched onto the tab on right side of block near injector no 1. If this is blank have a look on the wall of the block on the left side behind the generator. You should see a 3 or a 4 followed by a letter then a one or two digit number. This code will date the engine block. Also on the left side of the block you should find a fomoco badge cast into the wall of the block.
Best
Adrian

[Brian]

Your contact over there is not Leo Wignall is it? He is a great bloke and he and I always argue about Super Major lifts. Leo owned a Ford dealership and always converted Supers to the earlier power Major lift system as he felt they worked in Australian conditions better.

[gloved1]

Brian, no it is not Leon. I won't share the gents name on Forum as I have not spoken with him as yet and would not do so without his permission. Will try to get serial numbers today and see what I have. Hopefully will find out about replacement ASC also.

[gloved1]

Just got back from tractor to look for serial / casting numbers. Was able to find the following numbers,

RHS of Engine,
EIADDN6015 located below injector pump
T4 just below above casting number
S or 8 D50J with J3167 just below it on the head
FoMoCo stamped in a oval on the head
Large FL on head just below injector closest to radiator

On Gear Lever Base
E1ADDN with 7203 beneath it

On hydraulic cover just below seat
E1ADDN501B or 8 think B though
also on Cover there is a circle with numbers from 0-9 and an arrow pointing at 1 there is a tab next to it with 3MB on it and another circle just near it with a B in it

I have pictures if that helps, but am about to do some cross checking to see if I can identify anything.

Tks

[gloved1]

The only casting I can find with a 3 or a 4 followed by a letter and then some numbers is in the picture I took of the I.D Plate above which is labled Serial Prefix and has 3R, 4 64 on it along with Serial Number 11031 and model Number 94142.....

There was a number on the right rear arm but I could not recognise all of it.

[Brian]

3R 4 64 is Coburg, Victoria, April 1964 so she would possibly have been built in October/November 1963 in England. The Australian numbers are not really related to identification. She is definitely a New Performance Super.

The numbers you quote are casting numbers and will be the same on every Major. The ones you want are shown here on our site:

http://www.fordsontractorpages.nl/wiki/ ... Major.html

You will need the codes "fordsontractorpages" and "dotty". The casting code pictures are of a 1961 Super so the format will be slightly different, letter/number/letter rather than number/letter/number but it will show you where to look.

[gloved1]

Brian I am unsure why but when I try several links from the site it asks for username and password. When I submit it, it says it is wrong and access is denied?. "Any wonder I cant fix a Tractor" any clues

[gloved1]

Have even tried to change password and submit that one?

[AdrianNPMajor]

The photo of your hydraulic cover appears to bear the code 3M3 or 3M8. This would mean that the cover was cast on 3rd or 8th November 1963.
Best
Adrian

[Brian]

The username and password to get onto that part of this site are "fordsontractorpages"and "dotty" not the password you use to get on the site. That is why I put them in my reply.

[gloved1]

Thanks Brian, missed that crucial detail.

[gloved1]

Ok people, sorry for the delay but have only just returned to the tractor and successfully repaired the hydraulic issue. I ordered a working pump because I suspected that it may have been the issue and only wanted to do the top off once and fix it while off.

After the pump arrived I started by draining the Oil and once drained I removed the filter and thought it looked like a crustacean off the great barrier reef. Gave that a clean and refilled oil but while better still no good.

Drained oil again and took top off. Initial inspection was to verify that we had O-Rings where we needed on the pressure pipe from pump. Upon inspection we found that we had an o-ring but no retainer clip. This was allowing the pressure pipe from the pump to be pushed down into the gearbox area instead of staying put and making a positive seal on the top plate.

We fabricated a two piece retainer out of fencing wire and replaced the top cover and tested fine. It all operates as expected. So an easy fix after fearing the worst, and I now have a spare pump.

The fears about the valve block not being compatible proved not to be the case.

Would like to thank you all for your help and also the Curtis family from Tumby bay and Cummings in South Australia. The father whose name escapes me was a wealth of knowledge and basically predicted, blocked filter, transfer pipe and then pump in that order.

Cheers